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<center><big><big><b><i><font color="#3333ff">Giammalvo Files</font></i></b></big></big></center>
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<p><i><font color="#000000">Mark Giammalvo specializes in driveability
diagnostics </font><font color="#000000">at his family business,
Sam Giammalvo's Auto Sales & Service, Inc. in New</font>
<font color="#000000">Bedford, MA. </font> </i>
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<p><i><font color="#000000">Mark, who has been with the business for
over 20 years, is an ASE Master Technician
and Parts Specialist. He also holds the ASE L1 certification,
and has an associates degree in business</font> <font
color="#000000">management. <br>
Mark is also a writer for Motor Age Magazine and is the past secretary
of the Alliance of Automotive Service Professionals, (AASP).<br>
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<p><small><i><font color="#000000">(Printed in the Journal of The Alliance
of Automotive Service Providers, AASP) </font></i></small></p>
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<big><big><big><b> Kick It Out</b></big></big></big><br>
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It all started with a simple complaint. A customer with a 1996 Regal was
concerned about a fluctuating voltage gauge whenever the directionals were
turned on. It was a Saturday and the technicians were off. Just Glenn and
I were on duty getting caught up on overdue things in the shop. Although
no appointments were booked for the day, I figured I would try to help the
customer anyway. Sure enough, when the directionals were turned on the voltage
gauge moved down about 1/4 of an inch as the directional flasher illuminated
the lights. Seeing this on some older cars of the 80's I did not think it
merited testing but the customer was worried it might be the onset of a greater
problem. My first action was to rule out service bulletins for similar symptoms.
In the absence of finding any, I decided to open the hood and have a look
around. The alternator was fairly shiny and the customer reminded me that
we had replaced it less than a year ago. At this point I decided to connect
the Midtronics tester and test the overall health of the battery and charging
system. As with most charging/starting system test equipment, you need to
know the CCA (Cold Cranking Amp) rating of the battery being tested. First
problem, I could not even see, let alone test, the battery. It is a problem
that is getting more common lately. The battery on the Regal is under the
windshield washer reservoir. After unbolting and removing the reservoir I
was able to see the label on top of the battery. Second problem, the label
identified the battery as a Sears DieHard. What's the CCA rating? Not
posted on the top label, of course. The customer sensed my growing tension
as I mumbled to myself while staring down at the battery. This is not the
first Sears battery I have encountered without a CCA rating on the top decal.
Often Sears puts the rating on a big decal on the side of the battery. Third
problem, the side decal is not visible since this Buick has the special temperature
insulation wrap around the battery. That's an interesting subject in itself.
I have seen General Motors bulletins that warn of the importance of reinstalling
that insulation wrap whenever a battery is replaced. It prevents a reduction
in battery life caused by the high underhood temperatures of their car's
design. Now I know why I am getting so many burns on my arms and hands lately.
Anyway, I could not see the rating on the battery while mounted in the car
so now it was guessing time. A walk over to the battery specification guide
in the parts room gave me an approximate CCA rating for this car. After entering
that number into the Midtronics tester I proceeded with the diagnostic tests.
The test result was inconclusive. It said to "charge the battery and retest."
Neither the customer nor I could figure a cause as to why the battery should
be low. As a second measure I decided to connect the old VAT-40 Starter-Charging-Battery
test station. Fourth problem, I could only perform the battery portion of
the test. The lack of clearance around the battery on the Regal is such
that I could not even get the inductive pick-up clamp on the battery cable
wires to perform the starter and alternator tests. It was now near closing
time and I was not going to spend an hour of labor just to get the battery
out to perform a 2 minute test. That was it, it was time to kick it out.
Although it's not the owner's fault, I am getting sick and tired of cars
like this with such a cascade of problems. At first blush what should be
a simple test is turned into a gradual nightmare just by the overall design
of the car. It's as if they are now designing some of these cars to prevent
repairs. I advised the customer that the limited testing I could perform
may be pointing to a discharged or faulty battery. Since it was still probably
under warranty by Sears, I advised him to return there. I felt relieved
as I backed the car out of the bay and escorted the customer to his car.
Like a football, I had kicked one out. Call it the result of a gradual build
up of frustration of more than 20 years of automotive service or perhaps
my simple resistance to the ridiculous and absurd. Whatever it was, it sure
felt good. <br>
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