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<td height="40" colspan="7" align="left" valign="top" class="headline1"><p>Sold Archive: <a href="http://coraginsburg.com/sold-accessories.html">European and N. American Accessories</a></p></td>
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<td height="70" align="center" valign="top"><span class="detailpagetitle"><strong>Pair of knitted silk stockings</strong></span><br>
<span class="detailsubtitle">English, ca. 1730</span></td>
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<a href="images/accessories/W4005_detail.jpg" data-lightbox="image-access2"><img src="images/accessories/W4005_detail.jpg" width="380" style="padding-right: 15px; float: left;"></a>
In the early eighteenth century, both men and women wore brightly colored stockings, often with eye-catching decoration known as “clocks” over the ankles, either embroidered or, as here, knitted in the intarsia technique to form. Until the sixteenth century, most stockings were made from woven fabric, sometimes set on the bias but otherwise less form-fitting. In 1589, Englishman William Lee invented the knitting frame, which—although not in widespread use until about fifty years later—allowed the English to compete with the fine hand-knit accessories being produced in Spain. The French also quickly coopted the technology, leading to a great deal of industrial espionage throughout the late seventeenth century.
<p>Produced as a flat panel on a frame, these grass-green silk stockings were then sewn up the back, and a separate piece knitted in for the footbed. Surrounding the narrow white silk gore inserted at the ankles are flowering zigzagging vines topped by an exuberant stylized floral bouquet, unusually large in size. The ravished female lover in William Hogarth’s <em>After</em> (1731) wears similar blue stockings with less flamboyant clocks, though her male paramour wears plain white hose, which replaced colored versions for fashionable wear until the end of the eighteenth century (Fitzwilliam Museum, PD.12-1964). A similar pair is in the collection of Colonial Williamsburg (<a href="https://emuseum.history.org/objects/12096/stocking-green-knitted-silk" target="_blank">1954-1051, 1</a> and <a href="https://emuseum.history.org/objects/12097/stocking-green-knitted-silk" target="_blank">2</a>).
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Published in the <a href="http://coraginsburg.com/catalogues/2019/CoraGinsburg-Summer-2019.pdf" target="_blank"><em>Cora Ginsburg 2019 Summer</em> catalogue</a>.</p>
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