|
Server : Apache/2.4.62 System : FreeBSD fbsdweb2.web.rcn.net 14.1-RELEASE FreeBSD 14.1-RELEASE releng/14.1-n267679-10e31f0946d8 GENERIC amd64 User : www ( 80) PHP Version : 8.3.8 Disable Function : NONE Directory : /domains/highlandlabs/cqi-bin/ALFA_DATA/alfasymlink/root/domains/coraginsburg/ |
Upload File : |
<!doctype html>
<html lang="en">
<head>
<meta charset="utf-8">
<title>Cora Ginsburg</title>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
<meta name="description" content="As one of the foremost authorities in the field of antique textiles and costumes, Cora Ginsburg sells and provides a wealth of information on exquisite & rare works of art including 16th to 20th century costumes, textiles and needlework.">
<meta name="keywords" content="antique textiles antique costumes antique dealers Cora Ginsburg Titi Halle antique fabrics needlework needleworks embroidery embroideries crewelwork crewelworks tapestry wall hanging">
<meta name="robots" content="follow">
<meta name="revisit-after" content="30 days">
<meta name="classification" content="Antique Textiles">
<meta name="URL" content="http://www.coraginsburg.com">
<link href="css/cora_main.css" rel="stylesheet" type="text/css">
<script src="js/jquery-1.11.0.min.js" type="text/jscript"></script>
<script src="js/lightbox.min.js" type="text/jscript"></script>
<link href="css/lightbox.css" rel="stylesheet" />
<script language="JavaScript">
<!--
function MM_preloadImages() { //v3.0
var d=document; if(d.images){ if(!d.MM_p) d.MM_p=new Array();
var i,j=d.MM_p.length,a=MM_preloadImages.arguments; for(i=0; i<a.length; i++)
if (a[i].indexOf("#")!=0){ d.MM_p[j]=new Image; d.MM_p[j++].src=a[i];}}
}
//-->
</script>
</head>
<body>
<!--container-->
<table width="100%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<tr>
<td valign="top" height="100%">
<table width="800" border="0" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
<!--1st row - header -->
<tr valign="middle">
<td width="800" height="100">
<!--header-->
<table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0">
<tr valign="top">
<td width="293" height="78" valign="bottom"><a href="index.html"><img src="images/logo-new.png" width="293" height="54" alt="Cora Ginsburg LLC" title="Cora Ginsburg LLC"></a></td>
</tr>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
<!--end of 1st row-->
<!--2nd row - content -->
<tr valign="middle">
<td align="center" valign="top">
<!--content-->
<!--navigation-->
<table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0">
<tr>
<td height="40" colspan="7" align="left" valign="top">
<p><div class="dropdown">
<span>Textiles</span>
<div class="dropdown-content">
<p>
<a href="antique-textiles.html">Antique Textiles</a> <br>
<a href="modern-textiles.html">Modern Textiles</a> <br>
<a href="african-asian-textiles.html">African & Asian Textiles</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="dropdown">
<span>Costume</span>
<div class="dropdown-content">
<p>
<a href="costume.html">Costume</a> <br>
<a href="accessories.html">Accessories</a> <br>
</div>
</div>
<div class="dropdown">
<span>About</span>
<div class="dropdown-content">
<p>
<a href="gallery.html">Gallery</a> <br>
<a href="newsletter.html">Newsletter</a> <br>
<a href="resources.html">Links</a> <br>
<a href="affiliations.html">Affiliations</a> <br>
<a href="credits.html">Credits</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="dropdown">
<span><a href="publications.html">Publications</a></span>
</div>
<div class="dropdown">
<span>Sold Archive</span>
<div class="dropdown-content">
<p>
<a href="sold-costume.html">Costume & Accessories</a> <br>
<a href="sold-antique-textiles.html">Antique Textiles</a> <br>
<a href="sold-modern-textiles.html">Modern Textiles</a> <br>
<a href="sold-african-asian-textiles.html">African & Asian Textiles</a>
</div>
</div>
<div class="dropdown">
<span><a href="contact.html">Contact</a></span>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
<!--end of navigation-->
<!--end of navigation-->
<tr>
<td height="40" colspan="7" align="left" valign="top" class="headline1"><p>Sold Archive: <a href="http://coraginsburg.com/sold-costume2.html">Costume</a></p></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td height="56" align="center" valign="top"><span class="detailpagetitle"><strong>Dinner or evening dress of "Clarence Blue" silk</strong></span><br>
<span class="detailsubtitle">American (Connecticut), ca. 1818</span></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" valign="top" class="detailbody">
<a href="images/costume/W3889_lbox.jpg" data-lightbox="image-access2"><img src="images/costume/W3889_detail.jpg" height="680"style="padding-right: 15px; float: left;"></a>
By the fall of 1818, the Duchess of Clarence was responsible for numerous trends, chief among them a signature deep sapphire color, dubbed “Clarence blue.” In a <a href="https://www.rct.uk/collection/420216/queen-adelaide-1792-1849-when-duchess-of-clarence" target="blank_">miniature portrait in the Royal Collection</a>, probably painted in the year of her marriage, Adelaide wears a velvet dress of exactly this shade. Before this time, lighter blue shades called “azure” and “celestial blue” had been most popular. In September 1818, <em>La Belle Assemblée</em> promoted a muslin dress embroidered in Clarence blue, worn with a “Clarence spenser” and a “Clarence bonnet,” accented with larkspur and blue roses. The following month, it featured a muslin dinner dress with a hem “run through with Clarence blue satin” and a “Meinengen corsage” of matching color. The color’s popularity endured throughout the 1820s and persisted into the following decade. Adelaide continued to wear the distinctive hue even after becoming Queen in 1830, as evidenced by her <a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw00043/Queen-Adelaide-Princess-Adelaide-of-Saxe-Meiningen" target="blank_">1831 portrait by Sir William Beechey in the National Portrait Gallery, London</a>.
<p>
This American dress of Clarence-blue silk twill (known as “levantine” in the early nineteenth century) demonstrates the international scope of fashion, not only for its color but also for its incorporation of details that were at the height of British fashion in the late 1810s: a high-waisted bodice with a low square neckline, short puffed oversleeves or mancherons accented with loops of coordinating blue satin rouleaux, long undersleeves with cuffs extending over the back of the hands, and a long skirt flat in front but with fullness from two gores at the sides, held out by a padded hem. These historicizing details were loosely based on sixteenth-century garments, like those in paintings and prints by artists like Lucas Cranach the Elder. Parallel piped arcs of blue satin rouleaux interlock over the bust and bands of blue satin folded into overlapping triangular sections ornament the hem and cuffs. A similar bodice appears in a plate published in the <em>Journal des dames et des modes</em> in 1821, pl. 2002.
<p>
For more information, see the <a href="http://coraginsburg.com/catalogues/2016/CoraGinsburgCatalogue2016.pdf" target="blank_"><em>Cora Ginsburg 2016</em> catalogue</a>.</p>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<!--end of content-->
</td>
</tr>
<!--3rd row - footer -->
<tr>
<td align="center" valign="bottom">
<table width="100%" border="0">
<tr>
<td height="20" valign="bottom" align="center" class="copyr"><!-- #BeginLibraryItem "/library/copyright.lbi" -->Copyright © 2020 Cora Ginsburg LLC. All rights reserved.<!-- #EndLibraryItem --></td>
</tr>
</table>
</td>
</tr>
<!--end of 3rd row-->
</table>
</td>
</tr>
</table> <!--end of container-->
</body>
</html>