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<td height="40" colspan="7" align="left" valign="top" class="headline1"><p>Sold Archive: <a href="http://coraginsburg.com/sold-accessories.html">European and N. American Accessories</a></p></td>
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<td height="70" align="center" valign="middle"><span class="detailpagetitle"><strong>Tartan wool boots</strong></span><br>
<span class="detailsubtitle">French, ca. 1860</span></td>
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<center><a href="images/accessories/W3726_detail.jpg" data-lightbox="image-access2"><img src="images/accessories/W3726_detail.jpg" width="470" style="padding-right: 15px; float: left;"></a></center>
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These eye-catching women's boots of bright wool tartan with matching fringe reflect both the vogue for walking as a leisurely and healthy pursuit in the mid-decades of the nineteenth century and the sustained popularity of this fabric for fashionable dress. Although women began to wear low, "half" boots as a practical alternative to delicate slippers in the early nineteenth century, these were generally unassuming, made of black or neutral-colored wool with leather toes and flat heels. The boldly patterned material and the construction features of this pair—including their front lacing, low wooden heels, placement of the seam joining the vamp and the quarters, machine stitching, and narrow leather strips extending from arch to heel along the outer edge of the sole— suggest a date of about 1860. In the early 1860s, the practice of lifting the crinoline-supported skirts of daywear dresses by interior tapes (or other methods) to facilitate walking drew attention to the exposed foot, allowing women to show off brightly colored footwear now available due to the invention of aniline dyes in 1856.
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Tartan has long been associated with the kilt and plaid of Highland dress and its creation is particular to Scottish weavers. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert’s acquisition of Balmoral Castle in Scotland in 1852 and their endorsement of tartan for both dress and furnishing at this royal retreat generated a craze for the fabric in Britain as well as in the United States and France. In the 1850s and 1860s, women’s voluminous mantles and skirts provided ample opportunity to display the contrasting hues of both wool and silk tartans, but they were also frequently used as lively accents on solid-colored garments and for accessories.
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The trendsetting Empress Eugénie and other stylish French women also sported tartan. In spite of its imprimatur by Queen Victoria, <em>Godey's Lady's Book</em> declared in 1864 that, "As the Empress of the French and the Duchess de Moray have adopted the Tartan, our ladies must certainly follow suit." In October 1863, the <em>Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine</em> reported somewhat humorously on the "furore" for plaid cloaks in Paris and the "Scotch" costume that was a favorite among female visitors to the Normandy resort of Trouville, who "adopt it in strict accordance with the Highlanders' traditions, scarf, pouch, belt, feather, and all." In addition to finished goods that were available in Paris shops, tartan wools and flannels were advertised by numerous purveyors listed in the city's annual commercial directory from the 1840s to the 1860s.
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For more information, see the <a href="http://coraginsburg.com/catalogues/2014/CoraGinsburgCatalogue2014.pdf" target="_blank"><em>Cora Ginsburg 2014</em> catalogue</a>.</p>
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