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<h2><u>Two</u> changes to the foam tray die:</h2>
<p>I recommend moving the <u><b> skirt </b> </u> protrusion to the center. The rear guard on the plastic duct makes it very difficult (almost impossible) to attach the skirt to the protrusion in its current position. Moving the skirt protrusion to the center of its side will make it a bit easier to attach the skirt. I can provide a diagram if it isn't clear what I mean.
<p>As we've discussed, I also recommend moving the anti-spin protrusion back to the center.
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<img src="tray-regression.jpg" height=100><br>
<pre> Original Current Recommended </pre>
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<h2><p>Changes to the skirt tubing length:</h2>
<p> I recommend making all skirt tubing at least 5 feet long (60 inches). That's cutting it close. A bit longer - say, 65 inches - would allow even more margin for error, but 5 feet is sufficient.
<p>At the risk of further complicating things, if you want to have shorter skirt tubing for the single motor craft, the single motor skirt should be a minimum of 4 feet long (48 inches), while the twin motor skirt tubing should be a minimum of 5 feet long (60 inches).
<p>I understand that you may disagree with me. If so, please give me a chance to persuade you. I started using tubing for model hovercraft skirts almost ten years ago now. I am absolutely sure that I am right about this one.
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<h2>Changes to the instruction booklet:</h2>
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<b>Use Fresh Batteries</b>
<p>Page 3, under the "Batteries" subheading: I recommend inserting the word "new" or "unused", as in as in "Install 4 new AAA batteries".
I also recommending making the same change at the top of page 13 of the Inventor Centre instructions -- again, "Install 4 new and unused AAA batteries"
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<b> Make The Rechargeable Battery Warning More Explanatory </b>
<p>There is no better way to improve the performance of these model hovercraft than to use rechargeable batteries. I understand that you can't recommend using them. But if there is any way you can legally explain to people why you can't recommend them, and why they would otherwise be helpful, I believe you'll increase customer satisfaction.
<p>Page 3, under the "Batteries" subheading: I recommend explaining that rechargeable batteries are not recommended because they are a swallowing hazard for children. This way, people won't think that rechargeable batteries are going to burn out the motor.
<p>Perhaps the instructions could say: ""Due to the risk of swallowing, do not use rechargeable AAA batteries"
<p>Ideally, the instructions could even reveal the truth, which is this: "For users up to age 13 and for those with young children in the home, rechargeable batteries are not recommended due to a swallowing hazard. Teenage and adult users with no young children at home will find that NiMH rechargeable batteries will provide more power."
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<b>Velcro polarity. </b>
<p>If the user doesn't think ahead (and read ahead), he or she might end up with mismatched velcro. In my version of the instructions, I arbitrarily tell users to attach loop ("soft") velcro to the battery holders, and this ensures that everything will be interchangeable later.
<p> Page 6, botteom: The diagram on this page is a good place to illustrate show hook vs loop with arrows and labels: from the top to the bottom, the labels would read: hook, loop, hook, loop.
<p>Page 7, step 3: The third paragraph could say "Add a hook ("scratchy") fastener to the centre of the second support."
<p>The fourth paragraph could say "Add a loop ("soft") to the bottom of the battery box. While you are at it, add a loop ("soft") to the other battery box as well. Insert 4xAAA batteries into the battery box (see page 3), making sure that the switch is off. Attach the battery box to the foam support with the switch uppermost.
<p>Page 12, step 10: The text could read "Peel the backing paper off a self-adhesive loop ("soft") fastener, and stick it to the tray as shown. If the back of your battery compartment does not already have a self-adhesive hook ("scratchy") fasterner, peel the backing paper off one and stick it to the back of the battery box.
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<b>Bumper Tape Comes in Different Lengths </b>
<p>Page 7, step 4: I suggest making the first sentence to say "You find short, medium, and long strips of black self-adhesive foam strips in your kit." And then leave rest of the text as it is. That way, the user will actually notice that there are three lengths of strips.
<p>Page 13, step 12: I suggest "Peel the backing tape from the *medium-length* self-adhesive foam strip...."
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<b> Don't encourage use on carpets </b>
<p>Page 14, top: I recommend omitting the words "but the hovercraft should work on short-pile carpets as well". The sentence could read "Shiny floors are the best surface!" or it could read "place the hovercraft on a smooth hard surface such as shiny floor." It could even read "Your hovercraft may not work well on carpets -- try a shiny floor first!"
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<b>Skirt Explanation</b>
<p>Page 14, left column: I respectfully suggest omitting the following sentence: "The skirt is like a very low pressure balloon which extends all around the bottom of the hovercraft, preventing the escape of the air which lifts the hovercraft, which is sealed inside the walls created by this balloon".
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<b>Double Hull Arrangement </b>
<p>I don't think the double hull arrangement should be optional. Given the weakness of the currently manufactured trays, I think it should be the default follow-the-recipe way to construct the twin motor hovercraft.
<p> Page 17, top: Two trays are used. Remove the protrusions from one of the trays as shown. Place this tray on top of the other tray, and line them up. There will be a gap at the edges. Pinch the two edges together and secure with transparent tape. Use <i> at least </i> three or four vertical lengths of tape <i> per side </i> to completely join the two trays together. Now add the blue hovercraft parts as specified in the instructions, pushing the brass fasteners through both trays. Add black bumper tape and you're done!
<img src="double-hulls-side-by-sideIMG_2451.JPG" height=250>
<p>Two trays are used.
</p>
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<img src="double-hull-breakoff-protrusionsIMG_2448.JPG" height=250>
<img src="double-hulls-on-top-birdseyeviewIMG_2461.JPG" height=250>
<p>Remove the protrusions from one of the trays as shown.Place this tray on top of the other tray, and line them up. </p>
</p>
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<img src="double-hulls-34view-IMG_2463.JPG" height=250>
<img src="double-hull-gapIMG_2466.JPG" height=250>
<p>There will be a gap at the edges.</p>
</p>
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<img src="double-hull-pinch-tapeIMG_2484.JPG" height=250>
<img src="double-hull-taped-closedIMG_2500.JPG" height=250>
<p>Pinch the two edges together and secure with transparent tape.
<p> Use <i> at least </i> three or four vertical lengths of tape <i> per side </i> to completely join the two trays together.
</p>
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<img src="Double-Hull-2404.JPG" height=250>
<p>Now add the blue hovercraft parts as specified in the instructions below, pushing the brass fasteners through both trays. Add black bumper tape and you're done!
<p> Suggested order: 1) Join two foam trays together, 2) add black bumper (this is not optional), 3) add on the blue hovercraft parts.
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<b>Closing the airbox door </b>
<p>Page 17, top: I think many users will not read the text, and will not understand that they need to close the airbox door when building the twin motor hovercraft. A picture like the one below would explain it.
<p>The topmost illustration on page 17 could be rotated 180 degrees so that the perspective is from behind the airbox. The new drawing could show that the airbox should be attached to the foam tray, but could also show that the airbox door is closed.
<p>Alternatively, perhaps the perpective on the existing drawing could just shift a bit, so that the airbox door could be seen through the duct, and an arrow could highlight which shows the tray from behind, so that the airbox is shown closed.
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<b>Adjusting your hovercraft's the course heading</b>
<p>Page 18, insert before skirt instructions: You can adjust your hovercraft's rudders to make your hovercraft go straight, to the left, or to the right. Gently bend the rudders to the left or right. The top hull will rub slightly against the rudders, and holds them in place. Try different rudder positions until the hovercraft travels in the direction you desire.
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<img src="bending2-IMG_2027.JPG" height=150>
<img src="bending3-IMG_2029.JPG" height=150>
<img src="bending1-IMG_2025.JPG" height=150>
<img src="adjustable-rudders-doublehull-IMG_2412.JPG" height=150>
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<b>Black bumper tape shouldn't be optional</b>
<p>Page 18, right column, top: omit the discussion of the black foam tape here. Instruct the user to add black bumper tape immediately after joining the two hulls together.
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<b> Skirt attachment To Double Hull.</b>
<p> I think it should be made clear that the skirt is optional. I don't think any mention should be made of using the 2nd tray as a removable skirt. If you would like to include a third tray in the kit, then use that one as the removable skirt. But if there are only two trays included, they should be used to create the double hull arrangement.
<p> The double hull arrangement allows no access for brass fasteners to be used, so brass fasteners are not an option. I think the skirt should be attached to the hull with loops of adhesive tape. This works fine - I've done it successfully for years.
<p> Page 19, step 3:
I think the text should say "Attach the skirt using loops of adhesive tape. Place a loop of tape just below the black self-adhesive foam bumper strip in each of the numbered positions shown in the diagram to the left."
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<img src="double-hull-skirtIMG_2428.JPG" height=250>
<img src="double-hull-skirt-frontIMG_2440.JPG" height=250>
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<img src="double-hull-skirt-sideIMG_2431.JPG" height=250>
<img src="double-hull-skirtIMG_2432.JPG" height=250>
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<b>Skirt Feed </b>
<p>Page 19, step 5: I think the instructions for the Inventor Centre do not quite show how to properly set up the ends of the skirt tube for the twin motor craft. Look how the brass fastener is set up in the photo below - it pulls the skirt tube around and up. In the current Inventor Centre instructions, the user is instructed to bend the tubes into position, but there is nothing to prevent them from blowing back down again. Also, as shown in the second photo, I use a second fastener to keep the the tubes open and in the correct position.
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<img src="GH-skirt-feed2.jpg" height=250>
<img src="GH-skirt-feed3.jpg" height=250>
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