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<p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center;mso-pagination:none;
mso-layout-grid-align:none;text-autospace:none'><b><u>PARIS<o:p></o:p></u></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center;mso-pagination:none;
mso-layout-grid-align:none;text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
bold'>[This piece begins with restaurants, starting with the three places we go
to <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>without fail</i> every time we�re in
Paris:<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>grand, expensive, fancy
ones�including our very favorite, <b>Apicius</b>�one of the grand, elegant,
expensive �biggies� listed below�and the two very inexpensive but fantastically
good informal ones <b>La <span class=SpellE>R�galad<span style='font-weight:
normal;mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>e</span></span></b> and <b>Le <span
class=SpellE>Comptoir</span></b>�and continuing on to a quick overview of other
eating suggestions and tips.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Following
the food section, it then moves to some thoughts about museums and sightseeing
in Paris.]<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center;mso-pagination:none;
mso-layout-grid-align:none;text-autospace:none'><b>RESTAURANTS<o:p></o:p></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>FIRST, OUR THREE
FAVORITES:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><span class=GramE><b>Apicius</b><span
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(</span></span><span
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>20, rue <span class=SpellE>d'Artois</span>,
8e [Metro,]<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>+ 33 (0)1 43 80 19 66) This
extraordinary restaurant is one of the finest experiences in Paris, and it is
currently <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>our favorite restaurant
there�and our favorite restaurant in the world</i>!<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Although it has �only� two Michelin
stars�and, given the politics of that ridiculous organization, it is never
likely to have a third star�the cooking of Jean-Pierre <span class=SpellE>Vigato</span>
has always far surpassed that of all but the tiniest number of the city�s
three-star establishments.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>For many
years now it has been at its grand location on rue <span class=SpellE>d'Artois</span>
affords a venue worthy of housing its marvelous cuisine.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>As one walks down the rue <span class=SpellE>d�Artois</span>,
with its typical 8e arrondissement feel, one comes to an entrance in the street
wall at #20; going through it, one enters a totally unexpected, magnificent
open garden, with a mansion set 30 meters back.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>Within this impressive private mansion is housed the beautifully decorated,
amazingly comfortable and luxurious rooms of M. <span class=SpellE><b>Vigato</b>�s</span>
current restaurant.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>But the physical
grandeur is nothing compared to the magnificence of the cuisine.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Everything <b>Jean-Pierre <span class=SpellE>Vigato</span></b>
does when he touches foie <span class=SpellE>gras</span> is breath-<span
class=SpellE>takingly</span> wonderful�and his �cold and hot� sampler of foie <span
class=SpellE>gras</span> is not to be missed.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>This visit M. <span class=SpellE>Vigato</span> did a degustation for
us:<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>after the <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:
normal'>amazing</i> series amuses bouche, we began with an old signature dish,
a warm mousse of whipped foie <span class=SpellE>gras</span> and port wine
sauce; we the progressed to a cylinder of potato crowned with a caviar
preparation with chive; a second dish consisting of a lightly saut�ed piece of
fresh foie <span class=SpellE>gras</span> atop a marvelous piece of raw tuna,
separated by ginger and apple; a fish course built around a perfectly cooked
piece of Saint-Pierre; the a meat course, �<span class=SpellE>Cuix</span> et
Cru,� continuing the theme of the foie <span class=SpellE>gras</span> and raw
tuna, a piece of roasted filet of beef atop a piece of raw beef; and for
dessert, his heavenly signature dessert, a bitter chocolate souffl� with
Chantilly (and without sugar) was, as always, a particular treat, as was the
apricot souffl� one of us chose to substitute for the chocolate one�and which
all of us lovingly sampled.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The service
is professional and polished; the setting is elegant but relaxed.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>It is truly an unbelievably wonderful
experience�and one I should be totally eager to repeat as frequently as
possible.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>And two
restaurants are places with extraordinary food and which are equally
extraordinary bargains.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>They are the
former and present (respectively) establishments of the great <b>Yves <span
class=SpellE>Camdeborde</span></b>, and they both serve innovative, well-
prepared and -presented menus created by him.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>Be forewarned, however, that neither of these places is a secret
anymore.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Planning will be necessary to
avail yourselves of these splendid eating experiences.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.0in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><b>La <span class=SpellE><span class=GramE>R�galade</span></span><span
class=GramE> <span style='font-weight:normal;mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span>[</span></span><i style='mso-bidi-font-style:
normal'>N.B.</i></b><i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'><span
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>: there are new versions of this wonderful
restaurant with the same name; but they are not as good! <b>Be sure to go to
the one in the 14e <span class=SpellE>arrondisement</span>!</b></span></i><span
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>] (49, av. Jean-Moulin, 14e [Metro <span
class=SpellE>Al�sia</span>]<span class=GramE>,<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>01.45.45.68.58</span>)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Currently
a runaway favorite of ours for a bistro (and good for any class), <b>La <span
class=SpellE>R�galade</span></b> was started by <b>Yves <span class=SpellE>Camdeborde</span></b>
after he left the two-star Les <span class=SpellE>Ambassadeurs</span> at Le <span
class=SpellE>Crillon</span>.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>�Stars are
very nice, but I prefer them in the sky,� he is quoted as saying in Gourmet
Magazine�s wonderful Paris edition of March 2001.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>This simple and very inexpensive bistro that
he opened in lieu of being a major player in the Michelin star-collecting race
is so <span class=GramE>marvelous,</span> it is difficult to get a table.
Reserve early! Although no longer owned by <b>Yves <span class=SpellE>Camdeborde</span></b>,
the restaurant is as wonderful as ever, even without him at the helm.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(The current owners have wisely decided to
continue cooking M. <span class=SpellE><b>Camdeborde</b>�s</span> original
menu, in its original style.)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The amuse-<span
class=SpellE>gueule</span> that begins the meal here consists of a large tub of
a marvelous country p�t�, cornichons from ceramic a crock, and wonderful
country bread on which to eat the combination.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>The fixed-price, three course meal that ensues is as delicious as it is
inexpensive (amazingly still � 37 for a three-course meal).<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The cuisine is from the southwest of France;
the atmosphere is friendly and informal.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>On a recent visit, I had an extraordinary foie <span class=SpellE>gras</span>
concoction, floating in an amazingly intense cream of wild mushroom soup,
followed by a half duck in a sauce of figs, and ending with perhaps the
lightest Grand Marnier souffl� I have ever tasted anywhere. It is pretty far
out of the way, at the southern end of the 14e�and now closed on Saturday, like
most of the major restaurants in Paris; but well worth the trip.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.0in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><b>Le <span class=SpellE>Comptoire</span></b><span
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(9
Carrefour de <span class=SpellE>l'Od�on</span> 6e, Saint <span class=SpellE>Germain</span>
01 44 27 07 97)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�� </span><b>Yves <span
class=SpellE>Camdeborde</span></b>, who was the genius behind <b>La <span
class=SpellE>R�galade</span></b>, has opened a new bistro, <b>Le <span
class=SpellE>Comptoire</span></b>, located in the <b>H�tel Relais Saint-Germain</b>,
which M. <span class=SpellE><b>Camdeborde</b></span> also owns (click here for
information about the hotel, which is quite lovely).<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>In the informal setting of this tiny, cramped
restaurant, which spills out onto the sidewalk in good weather, M. <span
class=SpellE>Camdeborde</span> prepares amazingly delicious and creative
culinary delights.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>One has to book well
in advance to partake of the five-course prix-fixe set menus he serves in the
evenings.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(We are told that he now he is
no longer even accepting reservations for dinner, with the exception of guests
of the hotel, who can get reservations.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>Believe it or not, there are those who book�and do not even use�hotel
rooms solely for the purpose of being eligible to reserve a table for dinner!)<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�� </span>Our trick, however, is to go for an early
lunch�when he has never taken reservations; <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>arriving
by 11:45 AM</i>, before <b>Le <span class=SpellE>Comptoire</span></b> opens at
Noon�when one can get a table right away, before the long line forms as the
afternoon progresses.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>We have only eaten
lunch there�but it is spectacular; and we now do it every time we are in
Paris.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Order all the appetizers you
can�and do not overlook apparently mundane items like the charcuterie, the
boxed sardines, or the <span class=SpellE>oeufs</span> mayonnaise�which, in
reality, are treats special beyond all telling!<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>And don�t miss the main courses, either, as everything is
delicious.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(Try the tranche du lard,
assuming your cardiologist will permit you to do so�)<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>This place is an incredible treat!<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>THE BIGGIES:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>The following are
very pricey (with decent wines, plan to pay � 200-300 per person and up), and
also often hard�to impossible�to get a reservation.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Some are completely booked months in advance,
so you should book well in advance.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>It
is often easier to get a lunch reservation, however.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(<i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>N.B.</i>:
most are closed Saturday, and all are closed on Sunday!<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The only significant restaurants open on
Sundays are those in hotels�<span class=GramE>a they</span> usually have their
�second string� cooking, so not as good as on a week day.)<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>These are gastronomic experiences worth the
planning and the expense, however: plan to spend three to four hours or more
savoring the Epicurean delights of these temples of hedonistic pleasure!<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Also, be forewarned: most two-star
restaurants are just as expensive, and they are nowhere near as good.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span><span class=GramE>The exception being <b>Apicius,
</b>above.</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><b>Pierre <span class=SpellE><span class=GramE>Gagnaire</span></span></b><span
class=GramE><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(</span></span><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
bold'>6, rue Balzac 8 e<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>01 58 36 12
50)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Dinner at M. <span class=SpellE><b>Gagnaire</b>�s</span>
beautiful and comfortable restaurant is a unique experience: each dish arrives
with as many as five or six side tastes�a truly contrapuntal symphony of
flavors, textures and colors.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>I had his
autumn tasting menu, which begin with skate wing and foie <span class=SpellE>gras</span>,
with a jellied <span class=SpellE>lovage</span> in a peppery white beetroot
cream sauce; a dish combining green apple, red onion, crisp radish, and mango;
a �seasoning� of champagne, molasses, and <span class=SpellE>nuoc-m�m</span>
(Vietnamese mixed fish dipping sauce); stewed oysters in a mixture of fresh
ginger, red grapefruit, �red meat turnip� simmered in white port wine, and �<span
class=SpellE>feuille</span> de <span class=SpellE>culatello</span>� (an
extremely distinctive-tasting green, finally translated for us as �oyster
lettuce�); a cucumber sorbet with wasabi, with a <span class=SpellE>marini�re</span>
of razor clams in seaweed; then a medley of Saint-Pierre-Saint-Jacques (John
Dory & scallops)�1) a thin slice of Saint-Pierre (John Dory) in black
Malabar pepper, golden celery and ravioli of eggplant, a creamy leek soup with
pomegranate,<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>2) a morsel (chestnut) of
Saint-Jacques with cuttlefish and grilled <span class=SpellE>piqillos</span>
chili peppers, and 3)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>raw <span
class=SpellE>rosace</span>, <span class=SpellE>tha�</span> of <span
class=SpellE>avocdot</span> with grated <span class=SpellE>ch�taigne</span>
(small chestnuts) and <span class=SpellE>Matcha</span> tea table salt; roasted
king prawn with toasted almonds with gray shrimp, white-heart cabbage with
spiced bread and <span class=SpellE>piment</span> <span class=SpellE>d�Espelette</span>
(<span class=SpellE>BasquesChili</span> peppers); a <span class=SpellE>barquette</span>
de <span class=SpellE>girolles</span> (chanterelle mushrooms in a pastry shell)
with sea urchin and toast tongues; a piece of trimmed sirloin coated in an
oxtail tamarind jus, with a marmalade of butternut squash and bone marrow; a
medley of three cow�s milk cheeses�1) a Bleu du Val <span class=SpellE>d�Aillon</span><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>with a frozen infusion of Jerusalem
artichoke, 2) a <span class=SpellE>Moelleux</span> du <span class=SpellE>Revard</span><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>with a <span class=SpellE>pat�</span> of
lemon and capers, and 3) a <span class=SpellE>Mimolette</span> with a
mousseline of Calvados camembert; and ending with a grand selection of <span
class=SpellE>Gagnaire�s</span> desserts.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>It was quite an experience (including the witty puns in the names and
descriptions of the dishes�many beyond the scope of my knowledge of French, but
some of which I appreciated), unfortunately marred by service which completely
fell apart toward the end of the evening, when it took 45 minutes to talk them
into presenting the bill.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>While the novelty
and creativity of M. <span class=SpellE><b>Gagnaire</b>�s</span> sublime
cooking is well-worth experiencing, it is not a total experience I shall rush
to have again soon.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><span class=SpellE><span class=GramE><b>Ambroisie</b></span></span><span
class=GramE><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(</span></span><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
bold'>9, place des Vosges, 4e [Metro, St. Paul], 01.42.78.51.45) This is a
small, beautiful gem in a 17th-century mansion right on the Place des Vosges.
Bernard <span class=SpellE>Pacaud</span> produces sublimely simple but elegant
dishes that are a total joy to the palate.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>The service is excellent, and the dining experience is well worth the
considerable price�although it may be the most difficult reservation in the
world to get.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(Try for <span
class=GramE>lunch,</span> or perhaps a last minute cancellation)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><b>Alain <span class=SpellE>Ducasse</span> au Plaza <span
class=SpellE><span class=GramE>Ath�n�e</span></span></b><span class=GramE><span
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(</span></span><span
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>25, <span class=SpellE>av</span> Montaigne,
8e [Metro, Alma-Marceau ], 01.53.67.65.00)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>In 2001, M. <span class=SpellE>Ducasse</span> moved his very highly
acclaimed restaurant to a new venue in the Plaza <span class=SpellE>Ath�n�e</span>
Hotel.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Our meal there in 2002 was very
disappointing:<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>the food was quite good
and the room very attractive�but the service was completely unacceptable for a
restaurant on this level (and it was by far the most expensive of the
three-star restaurants). The contrast with <span class=SpellE><b>Ducasse</b>�s</span>
Le Louis XV in Monaco, where we had eaten a truly extraordinary meal, was mind
rending.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Our return visit in 2003 was
quite a different story, however: every morsel of every course was perfect and
delicious (reminding us very much of our experience at Le Louis XV).<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The amuses-<span class=SpellE>gueule</span>
and appetizers were particularly extraordinary: one of lightly cooked tails of
small langoustines topped with <span class=SpellE>osetra</span> caviar, another
of a potato preparation topped with a layer of sliced black truffles, and a
salad of winter greens, encased in an almost-sphere shell of sliced black
truffles.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><b>H�l�ne <span class=SpellE>Darroze</span></b><span
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�� </span>(4,
rue <span class=SpellE>d'Assas</span>, 6 e [Metro, <span class=SpellE>S�vres-Babylone</span><span
class=GramE>]<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>01.42.22.00.11</span>, FAX
01.42.22.25.40) This extremely highly touted restaurant (and its new, less-expensive
offspring, Salon <span class=SpellE>d�H�l�ne</span>), are both thought to be
wonderful (although we have yet to eat there).<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>Zagat says of the more expensive, main restaurant, H�l�ne <span
class=SpellE>Darroze</span>, �H�l�ne <span class=SpellE>Darroze</span>, a
student of Alain <span class=SpellE>Ducasse</span> and member of a respected
restaurant family, has made a �stunning start� in Paris, offering �mountains of
foie <span class=SpellE>gras</span>� and other Southwestern French fare of
�rare quality� in a �Zen� setting (wood floors, plum and tomato-red walls).�
Salon <span class=SpellE>d�H�l�ne</span> is, of all things, a tapas bar,
presenting her southwestern French cooking in a style modeled after the Spanish
format of a meal consisting of many tiny tastes of a variety of dishes.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><b><o:p> </o:p></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>[<span
class=GramE><i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>mentioned</i></span><i
style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'> for <b>historic reasons only</b></i>]<b> <span
class=SpellE><span class=GramE>Taillevent</span></span></b><span class=GramE><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(</span>15, rue <span class=SpellE>Lamennais</span>,
8e<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>[Metro, George V]<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>01.44.95.15.01, FAX 01.42.25.95.18)<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Sadly, things are no longer as they once were
at <span class=SpellE><b>Taillevent</b></span>, once our favorite restaurant in
the world.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Our admired friend M. <span
class=SpellE><b>Vrinat</b></span> passed away on 7 January 2008 and we had been
in mourning for M. <span class=SpellE>Vrinat</span> and were unable to bring
ourselves to return to Paris for two and a half years thereafter!<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>His daughter is running the restaurant, and
fabulous Alain <span class=SpellE>Soliveres</span> is still the chef, but
things are no longer the same there without him�and, quite frankly, we no
longer go, as it is now not the perfectly wonderful experience it always had
been.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Here, however, for the sake of
history, is what I thought of the place in the old days:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.0in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>I simply will
never go to Paris again without eating at <span class=SpellE>Taillevent</span>!
(We�ve gone five out of our last six trips �and the one time we didn�t go we
felt we had made a grave error.) Perfect service, perfect food, elegant d�cor,
a superb wine list, and an unsurpassed cheese tray�Jean-Claude <span
class=SpellE>Vrinat</span> certainly knows how to run a three-star
restaurant!<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>He personally presides over
the dining rooms (the only owner of such an establishment who is not himself a
chef), greeting, advising, and making welcome and comfortable all his
patrons�and not just the regulars or celebrities.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span><span class=SpellE>Taillevent</span> is also
by far the least expensive of the major three-star restaurants in Paris, for
some inexplicable reason.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.0in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>On our recent
visit in March 2004, we found that the cooking of M. <span class=SpellE>Soliveres</span>,
which, in our first exposure in 2003, had surpassed our wildest expectations,
had gotten even better�although how this is even possible is unclear! (My
strong conviction, however, is that it is an example of the incredibly
wonderful and powerful influence M. <span class=SpellE>Vrinat</span> exerts
over every facet of the restaurant's operation.)<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>On that earlier visit (14 March 2003), we
were fortunate to have arrived at <span class=SpellE>Taillevent</span> during
the season for <span class=SpellE>truffes</span> <span class=SpellE>noires</span>
(black truffles), and we took advantage of the grand tasting menu (180 �; there
is another tasting menu at 130 �) which was based around this extraordinary
forest mushroom.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Each of its eight
courses was pure perfection and gustatory delight, and included M. <span
class=SpellE>Soliveres�s</span> signature risotto of <span class=SpellE>epeautre</span>
(German wheat), cooked in a rich veal broth and topped by a layer of paper
thinly sliced truffles; bar (sea bass) served in a spectacular truffle sauce;
foie <span class=SpellE>gras</span> de canard <span class=SpellE>en</span> pot
au feu�duck liver over lovely winter vegetables, again in a truffle sauce.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>It was accompanied by a 1989
Nuit-Saint-Georges aux <span class=SpellE>Boudots</span> from <span
class=SpellE>M�o-Camuzet</span>, which was truly one of the finest burgundies I
have drunk in many years�beautifully balanced, with great fruit, just the right
acidity and tannin, and with a nose that was simply dreamy.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>It was the suggestion of the sommelier, after
a long discussion of what I might have considered choosing from the wine list;
and it was an inspired choice.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Not only
is the wine list at <span class=SpellE>Taillevent</span> a thing of beauty, the
wine knowledge there is truly a national treasure.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>On our recent visit, we had the smaller of
the tasting menus (both of which can be seen by clicking here).<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Every item in the <span class=SpellE>d�gustation</span>
was a magnificent delight�including the <span class=SpellE>epeautre</span>
risotto of wild mushrooms which the chef created on the spot as a substitute
for the <span class=SpellE>rouget</span>-barbet <span class=SpellE>en</span>
filet <span class=SpellE>po�l�</span> for Nancy, who doesn�t eat fish or shell
fish.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'><span
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>A warning</span></i><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
bold'>: <b>Lucas Carton</b> is a restaurant to which Michelin still gives three
stars (and which used to be one of our favorites, 25 years ago), but it has
gone way downhill and has been rather disappointing these days.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(I do not believe I shall ever go back.)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>OTHER RESTAURANTS
OF NOTE:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><b>Au <span class=SpellE>Trou</span> <span
class=SpellE><span class=GramE>Gascon</span></span></b><span class=GramE><span
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(</span></span><span
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>40 r. Taine, 12e<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>[<span class=SpellE>M�tro</span> <span
class=SpellE>Daumesnil</span>], 01 43 44 34 26)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>This wonderful bastion of southwestern cooking was begun and is owned by
the acclaimed Alain <span class=SpellE>Dutournier</span> (who owns and runs <span
class=SpellE>Carr�</span> des <span class=SpellE>Feuillants</span>), and it is
currently run by M. <span class=SpellE>Dutournier�s</span> wife, Nicole <span
class=SpellE>Dutournier</span>.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The
cooking of <span class=GramE>chef</span> Jean-Fran�ois <span class=SpellE>Godiard</span>
is superb (click here for a link to a current menu), and his cassoulet is
unbelievably delicious.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>There is an
extraordinary (and relatively inexpensive) collection of southwestern wines
available�particularly the great selection of <span class=SpellE>Madirans</span>;
and, for lovers of Armagnac, the restaurant boasts a collect of more than 100
rare varieties!<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Dinner here runs in the
neighborhood of 50� (not including wine), although a fixed price lunch can be
had for 36�.)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The service is
professional and the ambience is very pleasant.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�� </span>Although out of the way, this wonderful
restaurant is well worth the trip.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><span class=SpellE><span class=GramE><b>L�Astrance</b></span></span><span
class=GramE><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(</span></span><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
bold'>4, rue Beethoven, 16 e 01.40.50.84.40, FAX 01.40.50.11.45) �moderately
priced, chic new place; attractive and pleasant room, interesting and mostly
excellent food, although some of the unusual combinations are a bit too <span
class=SpellE>too</span>.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>BRASSERIES:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>These are loud,
funky restaurants which stay open late and aren�t bound by the same rigid hours
as most <span class=SpellE>bistrots</span> and restaurants. They serve a
standard but interesting French Brasserie menu: oysters, straightforward fish
and meat dishes, etc.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><b>Le <span class=SpellE><span class=GramE>D�me</span></span></b><span
class=GramE><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(</span></span><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
bold'>108, <span class=SpellE>blvd.</span> Du Montparnasse, 14e [Metro, <span
class=SpellE>Vavin</span>]<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>01.43.35.25.
81)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>This is a highly regarded albeit
much more expensive brasserie which is a major step up from the others in this
class. It is quite good and a fun place to eat; but it is not completely clear
that it is worth the prices it charges.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>It serves almost only fish, by the way�but what fish!<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The food here is outstanding.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Unlike its more inexpensive next door sister,
<span class=SpellE><b>Bistrot</b></span><b> de <span class=SpellE>D�me</span></b>
(see below), however, it does have at least one meat dish on the menu�a veal
chop, which is quite delicious.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span><b>Le <span
class=SpellE>D�me</span></b> serves a preparation of <span class=SpellE>ormeaux</span>
(abalone) as an unusual and quite special appetizer.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Their turbot with hollandaise sauce is a
particularly delicious main course, as are their various preparations of <span
class=SpellE>lotte</span> (monkfish�a delicacy in France that is quite unlike
and far superior to the fish that goes by that name in the States).<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><b>Brasserie Flo</b><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
bold'> (7, <span class=SpellE>cour</span> des Petites <span class=SpellE>Ecuries</span>,
10e [Metro, Ch�teau <span class=SpellE>d�Eau</span>]<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>01.47.70.13.59)<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>This classic turn-of-the-century brasserie is
the original of a chain of brasseries of which <b>La <span class=SpellE>Coupole</span></b>
[see below] is a part, and it by far the most authentic in its atmosphere.
There are two ways to go: 1) very inexpensive�they serve a prix fixe menu,
three courses including wine for 30.50 �; or, 2) more extravagant (although,
unless you really get carried away with the oysters, langoustines, etc., it
still turns out to be quite moderately priced)�ordering �<span class=SpellE>plateaux</span>�
of raw seafood, and various specialties � la carte, like their <span
class=SpellE>choucroute</span> or steak tartare.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Although the food is not always of the highest
quality, it is always a fun place�but it is a bit hard to find, as it�s tucked
away on an alley.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><b>La <span class=SpellE>Coupole</span></b><span
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>102, <span
class=SpellE>blvd.</span> Du Montparnasse, 14e (Metro, <span class=SpellE>Vavin</span>)
01.43.20.14.20 �a Montparnasse classic with pretty much the same menu as its
much smaller, less tourist-y sister establishment,<b> Brasserie Flo</b>; but
quite an enjoyable scene, which hasn�t changed much since Simone de Beauvoir,
Sartre and the gang used to go there; and if it was good enough for them�.
Actually, it has been reported (we haven�t been there in years) that the food
here has gone way down hill (as is also perhaps the case at <b>Brasserie Flo</b>)�so
be forewarned.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:
none;text-autospace:none'><span class=SpellE><b>Bofinger</b></span><span
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'> is a similar one near Bastille.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<h1 style='margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt'><span class=SpellE><u><span
lang=EN-GB style='font-size:12.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";
text-transform:uppercase;mso-ansi-language:EN-GB'>Bistrots</span></u></span><span
lang=EN-GB style='font-size:12.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";
text-transform:uppercase;mso-ansi-language:EN-GB;font-weight:normal;mso-bidi-font-weight:
bold'><o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoBodyTextIndent style='margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt'>There are a
number of chefs of �starred� restaurants who have opened <span class=SpellE>bistrots</span>
that are quite good, less formal, less courses and much more reasonably priced.
</p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoBodyText style='margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt'>We have not tried
the following <span class=SpellE>bistrots</span>, and this list and comments,
while a bit out of date, <span class=GramE>come</span> from an extremely
knowledgeable Parisian food-friend of ours:</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
normal'><o:p> </o:p></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'>Michel <span class=SpellE>Rostang�s</span>
<span class=SpellE><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Bistrot</b></span><b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'> <span class=SpellE>d��</span> Cote</b>;
Boulevard Saint <span class=SpellE>Germain</span> is a fun place of this sort,
crowded tables, good ambiance, good <span class=SpellE>bistrot</span> food. (He
has another �equally good one� in the 17<sup>e</sup>, next door to his 2 star <span
class=GramE>restaurant</span>)</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
normal'>Le <span class=SpellE>Cameleon</span></b> in Montparnasse (Rue de <span
class=SpellE>Chevreuse</span>) is the classic French <span class=SpellE>bistrot</span>.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The food is a bit heavier, but a lot of fun,
personable staff.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Patricia Wells picked
it as her favorite small restaurant some years ago.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The food is not that great, but it is a good,
fun meal.</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'>We eat regularly at the <span
class=SpellE><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Bistrot</b></span><b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'> de <span class=SpellE>D�me</span></b>.
This is a small Montparnasse, all-fish place that draws a local crowd and is
good value.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>It is across the street from
<b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Le <span class=SpellE>D�me</span> </b><span
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>(see above)</span>, <span class=GramE>its</span>
more expensive, brasserie cousin.</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><b><u>SOME GENERAL RESTAURANT CONSIDERATIONS:</u></b><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The normal restaurant hours in Paris are
12-2:30 at lunch (although they may not seat you after 1:30), and usually <span
class=GramE>between 8-10 for dinner</span>.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>In the good restaurants, however, once you are seated, you can stay for
life.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>That applies to cafes where a
coffee or drink buys you the table for as long as you like.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Be aware that almost all the great
restaurants in Paris are closed on Saturday and Sunday�of the �biggies,� only <span
class=SpellE>L�Ambroisie</span> is open on Saturday; and there is now a growing
trend among lesser restaurants to close on the weekends as well.</p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal>Also, remember that <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>by
law</i>, <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>all</i> restaurant and caf�
prices include tax and service. One usually leaves the centimes change in a
caf� and 0-5 % extra in a restaurant, but that isn�t absolutely necessary, as 0%
means you are already leaving the 15% tip which is included in the price. (In
contrast to American restaurants, in which wait staff get little salary and are
almost completely dependent on tips to make <span class=GramE>a living, French
wait staff are</span> reasonably well paid from the government-mandate service
charge.)</p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal>Remember, too, that in France, �entr�e� is the word for an
�appetizer.�</p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<h4><span style='mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>SOME THINGS TO SEE<o:p></o:p></span></h4>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>[I have included internet links to those
museums that have their own web sites (just click on the name of the museum, if
it is underlined and in color); but a good site from which to get information
(location, hours, collections, special shows) about any Paris museum is <a
href="http://www.paris.org/Musees/">http://www.paris.org/Musees/</a>, and the
main page of this site, <a href="http://www.paris.org/">Paris Pages</a>, is a
good source for basic information and events in Paris in general.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Many of the images below have embedded links
which allow one to click on the image for a larger, higher resolution version.]<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p style='margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
bold'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><a
href="http://www.musee-orsay.fr:/"><span class=SpellE>Mus�e</span> d�Orsay</a></b><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(1, rue de <span class=SpellE>Bellechasse</span>,
62, rue de Lille, 7 e [Metro, <span class=SpellE>Solf�rino</span>] <a
href="tel:01.40.49.48.14">01.40.49.48.14</a>) <span class=GramE>The</span> <span
class=SpellE><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Mus�e</b></span><b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'> d�Orsay</b> is a truly great museum, and a
must-see for any trip to Paris; but it is <i>not</i> a secret: it is overrun by
tourists! One gambit for avoiding the terrible lines is to buy tickets from the
concierge of your hotel (most good hotels can provide tickets to any museum you
wish) or to purchase tickets online.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>(With pre-purchased tickets or this card, you go straight to side
entrance, �C,� (to the right of the main ticket-buying line [facing the
entrance]) and walk right into the museum. The same strategy also works
at the <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Louvre</b>, the <span
class=SpellE><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Mus�e</b></span><b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'> Picasso</b>, the <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
normal'>Beaubourg</b>,<i> et al.</i>�and, at all of these places you get to
bypass the line for buying tickets and go straight to the entrance.)</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'> </p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'>The building itself, formerly a railroad station (the
Beaux-Arts <span class=SpellE>Gare</span> d�Orsay, built in 1900), was
converted to a museum (beginning in 1977; but with the most significant aspects
of the conversion taking place under the direction of Italian architect and
interior designer <span class=SpellE><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Gae</b></span><b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'> <span class=SpellE>Aulenti</span></b>, who
oversaw the design of the conversion from 1980-6) is quite interesting,
effective, and beautiful; but it is the paintings the <span class=SpellE><b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Mus�e</b></span><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
normal'> d�Orsay</b> contains that are <i>so</i> extraordinary.</p>
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<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Opened
in 1986, the museum presents art of the period 1848 to 1914. The collection
combines works formerly at the <span class=GramE>Louvre<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(</span>by artists born after 1820 or who
emerged into the art world with the Second Republic, 1848-1852), all of the
impressionist works formerly displayed in the <span class=SpellE>Jeu</span> de <span
class=SpellE>Paume</span>, and work <!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_8"
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</v:shape><![endif]--><![if !vml]><a
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border=0 width=323 height=274 src="paris_files/image004.gif" align=left
hspace=12
alt="Camille Pissarro,The Seine and the Louvre,� RMN (Mus�e d'Orsay) / Herv� Lewandowski"
title="" v:shapes="Picture_x0020_8"></a><![endif]>formerly at the <span
class=SpellE>Mus�e</span> National <span class=SpellE>d'Art</span> <span
class=SpellE>Moderne</span> (which works, when they were installed in the
Centre Georges Pompidou in 1976 [<i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>q.v.</i>,
below], showed only works by artists born after 1870).<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The ground floor contains works done up to
the beginning of the 1870s.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>There are
some real treasures to be found there, including some magnificent work by
Ingres, Delacroix, Millet, Corot, Courbet (who, in addition to�as the others in
this list�doing paintings that were crucial to the early pre-history of the
impressionist movement, did the hilariously wonderful <!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape
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border=0 width=355 height=282 src="paris_files/image006.gif" align=right
hspace=12 alt="Edouard Manet,Le d�jeuner sur l'herbe,� RMN, Herv� Lewandowski"
title="" v:shapes="Picture_x0020_6"></a><![endif]>1866 <span class=SpellE><i
style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>l�Origine</i></span><i style='mso-bidi-font-style:
normal'> du monde</i> [<i>The Origin of the World</i>]; above, right), <i
style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>et al.<o:p></o:p></i></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'><o:p> </o:p></i></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>It
is on the third floor, however, that the truly unbelievable profusion of
treasures is to be found: rooms devoted to fabulous works by <span
class=SpellE>Manet</span> (many of his pivotal paintings are here, including
his wonderfully provocative and controversial paintings, the 18<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span><span class=SpellE>l�Olympe</span> and<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>the 1863 <i>Le <span class=SpellE>d�jeuner</span>
sur <span class=SpellE>l'herbe</span></i> [at right], Whistler, Degas, Monet,
sublime works by Pissarro (<i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>e.g.</i>, his
1903 <i>The Seine and the Louvre</i>, painted near the end of his life; at
left)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>some incredible Sisley, C�zanne (<i
style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>e.g.</i>, <i>The Gulf of Marseilles from <span
class=SpellE>L'Estaque</span>,</i> 1878-9; at right), Van Gogh, Redon, Gauguin,
Signac, Seurat, Toulouse-Lautrec, <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>et al</i>.</p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;
text-align:justify'>My only gripe (and it is a <i>big</i> one) is that the
skylights in the third floor galleries let in direct sunlight �which at times
and under certain conditions make viewing some of the very best of these
masterpieces all but impossible (imagine trying to look at a subtle Pissarro
painting in the glare of direct sunlight!), and cannot physically be doing the
works any good, either.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(At the moment,
the worst offenders�the southern galleries on the third floor�are closed, and
the paintings from them are in a temporary space on the second floor.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>While it is sad that not the usual full array
are on view, the actually are more viewable due to the absence of the glare.) </p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><b><a
href="http://www.cnac-gp.fr/Pompidou/Accueil.nsf/Document/HomePage?OpenDocument&L=2">Le
Beaubourg, Centre Georges Pompidou</a></b><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>(place Georges-Pompidou, 4e, [Metro <span class=SpellE>Rambuteau</span>,
H�tel de Ville], <a href="tel:01.44.78.12.33">01.44.78.12.33</a>) Like
the <span class=SpellE>Mus�e</span> d�Orsay, <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
normal'>Le <span class=SpellE>Beauborg</span></b> is a museum we <i>always</i>
visit on any trip to Paris (and one that is much easier to get in to, by the
way). <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Renzo Piano</b>, <b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Richard Rogers</b>, and <b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Gianfranco <span class=SpellE>Franchini</span></b>,
the architects of the <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Centre Georges
Pompidou</b>, designed this building in 1971 to be an "expandable spatial
diagram." In a then provocatively innovative and controversial
design, the utility shafts were attached very visibly to the outside of the
building, and were painted in four brilliant colors�blue, air conditioning;
green, water circuits; yellow, electrical conduits; red, circulation
(elevators, etc.) and security (sprinklers, <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>etc</i>.)
This design�which we like very much�both freed the inner space from utility
shafts and circulation devices (staircases, elevators, etc.) and gave the
building its distinctive look. In addition to housing the <span class=SpellE>D�partement</span>
du <span class=SpellE>d�veloppement</span> <span class=SpellE>culturel</span>
(which organizes and develops activities presented in the Centre in the areas
of living performances, spoken word activities, cinema and audiovisual
presentations), the fourth and fifth floors of this wonderfully odd
architectural creation are home to <b>Le <span class=SpellE>Mus�e</span> <span
class=SpellE>nationale</span> d�art <span class=SpellE>moderne</span></b>�devoted
to historical and contemporary painting and sculpture, drawings, photography,
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v:shapes="Picture_x0020_11"><![endif]>and visual communication, architecture,
experimental cinema, video and new technologies, and containing the incredible
national collections of art works from 1905 to the present.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span></p>
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<o:lock v:ext="edit" aspectratio="t"/>
<w:wrap type="square" anchory="line"/>
</v:rect><![endif]-->Wandering these galleries, one comes across a rotating collection
of totally magnificent masterpieces by Matisse (<i style='mso-bidi-font-style:
normal'>The Red Table</i>, 1903; above, at left, Cezanne, Braque (including his
very unusual 1903 <span class=SpellE><i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>l�Estaque</i></span>,
at right, and his wonderful 1913, <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>Fish
Dish and Cards</i>, above, at left), Picasso, Mondrian<span class=GramE>,<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Miro</span>, Calder, Giacometti,
Brancusi,<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Pollack, Klein, Beuys, Albers,
Johns, and just about everyone else from the era you might wish to find.</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>It
is said that the historic purpose of the <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Pompidou
Center</b> was to be a refutation of the idea that the center of the modern art
world had moved from Paris to New York after WWII�particularly ironic, given
that even the architects of the wonderful building were not French).
Rather, <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Le Beaubourg</b> actually
demonstrates the exact opposite: its <i>pre</i>-WWII collection of French
and European art is astounding�full of incredible masterpieces that make the
museum a must-see and that powerfully documents the preeminence of Paris in
this period; the post-War and more contemporary art in its collection always
looks sadly deficient by comparison�except for the works done on the other side
of the Atlantic.</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><a
href="http://www.musee-picasso.fr/homes/home_id23982_u1l2.htm"><span
class=SpellE>Mus�e</span> Picasso</a></b> <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span></b><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>(5,
rue de <span class=SpellE>Thorigny</span>, 3e [Metro, Saint Paul, <span
class=SpellE>Chemin</span> Vert, <span class=SpellE>Filles</span> du <span
class=SpellE>Calvaire</span>] </span><a href="tel:01.42.71.25.21"><span
style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>01.42.71.25.21</span></a><span
style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>) <span class=GramE>This</span> recently
re-opened (after<i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'> far</i> too many years
of being closed for renovations) museum has always had an astounding collection
of Picasso�s painting and sculpture, and it is still an absolute </span><i><span
style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPS-ItalicMT'>must see</span></i><span
style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>! (We never miss it�and it is a
good place to follow with a walk through the Marais district). The renovations
are extremely disappointing, however:<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>they have transformed the beautiful old building onto a series of generic
museum spaces.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>What is <i
style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>far</i> <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>inexcusably
</i>worse is the design of the lighting and displays: virtually all of the
paintings and drawings are under glass, and some of them encased in glass
boxes, (as is much of the sculpture)�and reflective glass, at that!�<span
class=GramE>an</span> lit in a way that makes viewing virtually
impossible!<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>One simply cannot find an
angle from which to avoid the disturbing glare.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>It is a pitifully bad piece of museum design<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><span
style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'><a
href="http://www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr/en.html"><span class=GramE>Foundation
Louis <span class=SpellE>Vuiton</span></span></a><span class=GramE>.</span><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span></span></b><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>Our
May 2016 marked our first visit to <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Frank
Gehry</b>�s new <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><a
href="http://www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr/en.html">Foundation Louis <span
class=SpellE>Vuiton</span></a></b>.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>While there are some Gehry buildings I completely love (the Guggenheim
in Bilbao, the Disney Center in LA), there are many I actively dislike�and most
that I am very lukewarm toward.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>His <b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Foundation Louis <span class=SpellE>Vuiton</span></b>,
however, is one of those cases that demonstrates my belief that one cannot
really comment on a building without having actually visited it in person: the
photographs, plans, and even the 3-dimensional models of this project had left
me cold about it; but in person its actuality is really quite a masterpiece�at
least in the form it is in when we visited it, with the colorful addition of <b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Daniel Buren</b>�s 2016 project, �<span
class=SpellE><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>L�Observatorie</b></span><b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'> La <span class=SpellE>Lumiere</span></b>�
adding color to the usually translucent glass panels of <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
normal'>Gehry</b>�s forms.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�� </span>We shall
have to return in a year or so when these colored panels are removed�and I
actually suspect I will end up liking the building <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:
normal'>better</i> with the color than without</span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal>The <b><a href="http://www.louvre.fr/louvrea.htm">Louvre</a></b>
is one of the world�s great museums; among its many world class treasures, it
is the home to one of the three unbelievably wonderful paintings by Uccello of
the<a
href="http://www.louvre.fr/llv/oeuvres/detail_image.jsp;jsessionid=MpTLwfwhrg7lLvMdzjJdsHT0n9BbQPLzGMtHhX5y1kdT2hn2mtNN!2115265287?CONTENT%3C%3Ecnt_id=10134198673362134&CURRENT_LLV_ILLUSTRATION%3C%3Ecnt_id=10134198673362134&CURRENT_LLV_NOTICE%3C%3Ecnt_id=1013419">
Battle of San Romano</a> (the other two being at the Uffizi in Florence and the
National Gallery in London)�these incredibly modern 15<sup>th</sup> century
paintings are among our favorite works of all time, and we always visit them
when we are in one of the cities that has one (even when we don�t have time to
see anything else in that museum).</p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
normal'><a href="http://www.museeguimet.fr/"><span class=SpellE>Mus�e</span> <span
class=SpellE>Guimet</span> - <span class=SpellE>Mus�e</span> National des Arts <span
class=SpellE>Asiatiques</span></a></b><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>(6, place <span class=SpellE>d'I�na</span>; 19, avenue <span
class=SpellE>d'I�na</span>, 16<sup> <span class=GramE>e <span style='vertical-align:
baseline'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span>[</span></span></sup>Metro, <span
class=SpellE>I�na</span>]<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>01.47.23.61.65)
�the newly redone building is a beautiful, architecturally interesting, and
very pleasant place to see<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>the fabulous
collections it houses:<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>the largest
collection of Buddhist art in Europe; art and archaeology from the 17 countries
of antiquity, from Afghanistan to Japan; art from Afghanistan, Cambodia, Tibet
and Buddhist Japan; rare porcelain from China. </p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>������������������� </span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><a
href="http://www.marmottan.com/"><span class=SpellE>Mus�e</span> <span
class=SpellE>Marmottan</span></a>-Claude <span class=GramE>Monet <span
style='font-weight:normal'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span>2</span></span></b>,
rue Louis <span class=SpellE>Boilly</span>, 16<sup> e </sup><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span>(Metro, La <span class=SpellE>Muette</span>)
�an extensive collection of Monet�s paintings (essentially all of the ones you
might <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>think</i> are at <span
class=SpellE>Giverny</span>, but aren�t) </p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>����������������� </span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span class=SpellE><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Viaduc</b></span><b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'> des <span class=SpellE>Artes</span> -
Promenade <span class=SpellE>Plant�e</span></b><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>��� </span><span class=GramE>The</span> most creative
use ever of an abandoned, elevated railroad line. Running alongside avenue <span
class=SpellE>Daumesnil</span>, Le <span class=SpellE>Viaduc</span> des Arts
dates back to 1859 when it was built as a railway bridge linking Bastille to
the Bois de Vincennes. Restoration of the viaduct took place in 1990 under the
auspices of <span class=SpellE>Semaest</span>, an art and crafts association,
and with the help of the architect Patrick Berger. Today, this massive stone
and red brick edifice has become the latest Mecca for Parisian craftsmen and
designers who have converted the viaduct's arches into workshops and showrooms.
The arches are now filled with huge shop windows dedicated to the artistic
expertise of these artists and craftsmen. Just above, the Promenade <span
class=SpellE>Plant�e</span> offers an exposed pedestrian footpath running
across the viaduct toward Vincennes that has been planted with lush greenery
and flowers.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>It is a magnificent <span
class=GramE>park, that</span> is essentially 30 feet wide and a mile and a half
long.<b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><o:p></o:p></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<h3 style='margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt'><span class=SpellE><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>Parc</span></span><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"'> Andr�
Citro�n</span><span style='font-size:12.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";
font-weight:normal'> (Quai Andr�-Citro�n, 15<sup> e</sup> [Metro, <span
class=SpellE>Balard</span>, <span class=SpellE>Bir-Hakeim</span>]) �a
futuristic park, basically <span class=GramE>laid</span> out geometrically, but
with all sorts of side areas that create various environments.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Extremely interesting plantings, including
many exotic collections housed in large, glass-walled buildings at several
places within the park. A wonderful, computer-sequenced set of water jets that
comprise a most interesting fountain at one end of the park �aesthetically
pleasing, and marvelously inviting for small children to play in on a hot day<o:p></o:p></span></h3>
<h3 style='margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt'><span style='font-size:12.0pt;
mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";font-weight:normal;mso-bidi-font-weight:
bold'><o:p> </o:p></span></h3>
<h3 style='margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt'><span class=GramE><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"'>Bois de
Boulogne</span><span style='font-size:12.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";
font-weight:normal'> Main entrance at bottom of avenue Foch, 16<sup> e</sup>
(Metro, Porte Maillot, Porte Dauphine, or Porte <span class=SpellE>d'Auteuil</span>)
�The city's largest park, known to Parisians as "Le Bois."</span></span><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";font-weight:
normal'> Formerly a royal forest and hunting ground, it was landscaped by Baron
Haussmann in the1850s. This 2000-acre park is home to rowers, joggers,
strollers, bicyclists, game players,<o:p></o:p></span></h3>
<h3 style='margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt'><span class=GramE><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";font-weight:
normal'>picnickers</span></span><span style='font-size:12.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:
"Times New Roman";font-weight:normal'>, and lovers.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>And contains-<o:p></o:p></span></h3>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><span class=SpellE><b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Parc</b></span><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
normal'> de <span class=GramE>Bagatelle<span style='font-weight:normal'><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(</span></span></b>Bois de Boulogne, <span
class=SpellE>S�vres</span>-to-Neuilly road, 16<sup> e</sup> [Metro, Porte
Maillot])<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
normal'>�</b>The Bagatelle is a magnificently planted set of gardens of various
sorts.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The <span class=SpellE>RoseGardens</span>
(<span class=SpellE>Roseraie</span>) at the western edge of the Bois contains
11 thousand rose bushes.</p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><span lang=FR
style='mso-ansi-language:FR'>Jardin du Luxembourg</span></b><span lang=FR
style='mso-ansi-language:FR'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�� </span>(rue
Guynemer � <span class=SpellE>blvd</span>. </span>Saint-Michel, 16<sup> e</sup>
[Metro, <span class=SpellE>Od�on</span>]) <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>�</b>Built
by Salomon de <span class=SpellE>Brosse</span> for Marie de <span class=SpellE>Medicis</span>,
the <span class=SpellE>jardin</span> du Luxembourg is one of the most romantic
gardens of Paris. Laid out around the central fountain in a French-style
garden, it stretches out to the Fontaine de <span class=SpellE>l'Observatoire</span>
by <span class=SpellE>Davioud</span>.</p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Place des Vosges</b><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>��� </span>4<sup> e</sup> (Metro, Bastille, <span
class=SpellE>Chemin</span> Vert, Saint Paul) The Place des Vosges is Paris' oldest
square. The ground floor arcade consists of 39 houses, each made of red brick
with stone facings, arranged around the perimeter of a completely symmetrical
park <span class=GramE>It</span> was constructed under Henri IV from 1605 -
1612.</p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Sainte <span
class=SpellE><span class=GramE>Chapelle</span></span></b><span class=GramE><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>4</span>, boulevard du <span class=SpellE>Palais</span>,
1<sup> e</sup> (Metro, <span class=SpellE>Cit�</span>) A rather beautiful royal
chapel, built by Louis IX in the 1240s. This small gothic chapel is one of the
inspiring visual experiences of Paris, due largely to its stained glass windows
which essentially surround the entire upper floor. The Gothic drive to reduce
the masonry and open the walls (achieved by the use of flying buttresses on the
exterior), reaches its height, here, where virtually the entire space is filled
by stained glass, flooding the chapel with colored light.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Below, on ground level, there are beautiful
ribbed groin vaults, in high Gothic style.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span><span class=GramE>Very touristy, but worth a look.</span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal>Of course, if you want to see a <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:
normal'>truly</i> sublime Gothic cathedral, take the train to <b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Chartres</b> for the day (or half-day,
even)</p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal>Some Hotels:</p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><a href="http://www.princedegallesparis.com/"><span
style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>Hotel Prince de <span class=SpellE>Galles</span></span></a><span
style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'> (33, av. Georges V, 8e </span><a
href="tel:01.53.23.77"><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>01.53.23.77</span></a><span
style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>) �a very luxurious (and expensive) right
bank establishment<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'> <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><a href="http://www.crillon.com/"><span style='font-family:
TimesNewRomanPSMT'>H�tel de <span class=SpellE>Crillon</span> </span></a><span
style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'> (10 Place de la Concorde, 8e </span><a
href="tel:01.44.71.15.00"><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>01.44.71.15.00</span></a><span
style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>)�an even </span><i><span
style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPS-ItalicMT'>more</span></i><span
style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'> luxurious hotel, a major gem, in one of
the best right bank locations imaginable; but </span><i><span style='font-family:
TimesNewRomanPS-ItalicMT'>very</span></i><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>
expensive<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'> <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span class=GramE><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>near</span></span><span
style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'> rue <span class=SpellE>Vavin</span>, in
Montparnasse (second is a little fancier and more expensive--but not
much...rooms start at 120 �):<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>
<span class=SpellE>Aiglon</span> 232, <span class=SpellE>bd</span>
<span class=SpellE>Raspail</span> Tel: (33) 1 43 20 82 42<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><b><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPS-BoldMT'>
Sainte-Beuve 9, rue Sainte-Beuve Tel: </span></b><a
href="tel:(33)%201%2045%2048%2020%2007"><b><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPS-BoldMT'>(33)
1 45 48 20 07</span></b></a><b><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPS-BoldMT'><o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
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text-autospace:none'><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'> <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>Hotel Clement
(6, rue Cl�ment,<span class=GramE> 6e</span> </span><a
href="tel:01.43.26.53.60"><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>01.43.26.53.60</span></a><span
style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>) �very inexpensive<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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text-autospace:none'><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'> <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-pagination:none;mso-layout-grid-align:none;
text-autospace:none'><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>Hotel de <span
class=SpellE>l�Abbaye</span><span class=GramE> (</span>10, rue Cassette,
6e </span><a href="tel:01.45.44.38.11"><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>01.45.44.38.11</span></a><span
style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'>)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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text-autospace:none'><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'> <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p style='margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt'><span style='font-family:TimesNewRomanPSMT'> [Hotel
du College de France�for students</span><span lang=FR style='mso-ansi-language:
FR'>]<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p align=center style='text-align:center'><a href="travel.html">Return to the
Dead Parrot TRAVEL Page.</a></p>
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