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<p class=MsoTitle><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">LONDON</st1:City></st1:place></p>
<p style='margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal>[Restaurants and sites that are underlined and appear in
color have web sites that are reachable by clicking on them.]</p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><b><u>TWO MUST-VISIT SHOPS</u></b><u> (Places we are most
likely to visit whenever we�re in <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">London</st1:place></st1:City>)<b>:</b></u>
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<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.0in;text-indent:-.5in'><b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><a href="http://www.rococochocolates.com/">Rococo
Chocolates</a></b> -makes their own chocolates�very, very unusual, and
extremely good. Dark chocolate in every level of cocoa up to 99%; incredible
combinations (<i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>e.g.</i>, dark chocolate
with chili pepper, white chocolate with cardamom, milk chocolate with sea
salt�and, as of my most recent visit, dark chocolate wafers with coffee and
cardamom); ginger or mint chocolate wafers to die for.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span><i>And</i> they let you sample
everything!<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>There is no easy way to get
to the original <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Chelsea</b> store (321
King�s Rd at Beaufort St., +44 20.7352.5857)�unless you are stopping by Norman
Foster�s shop nearby; and it is probably worth taking a taxi, unless you�d like
to take the long walk along �the KR� from the Sloane Square Tube stop. But
there are now <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>two new shops</b> in
London:<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>one in <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
normal'>Belgravia</b> (5 <span class=SpellE>Motcomb</span> St.<span
class=GramE>,<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>+</span>44 20 7245 0993),
and one in <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Marylebone</b> (45 Marylebone
High St.,<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>+44 20 7935 7780)
Unfortunately, you can no longer<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>order
online outside of the UK.</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.0in;text-indent:-.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.0in;text-indent:-.5in'><b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><a href="http://www.nealsyarddairy.co.uk/">Neal's
Yard Dairy</a></b> near <st1:place w:st="on">Covent Garden</st1:place>, a
heavenly array of cheeses---you simply must go! They only carry cheeses of the <st1:place
w:st="on">British Isles</st1:place> and everyone who works in the store is a
wonderful character. They are constitutionally incapable of handling a piece of
cheese that is either over- or underage and, if you go at a non-busy time, they
are very generous with tastes and information. They also mail order. The
stilton from <span class=SpellE>Colston</span> Bassett is to die for, and there
are also really good Irish cheeses,<i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'> e.g</i>.,
the <span class=SpellE>Milleens</span> from Veronica Steele.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Good bread, too. (Daily, <span class=GramE>+44
20.7645.3550</span>)</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.0in;text-indent:-.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><b><u>RESTAURANTS:<o:p></o:p></u></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><u>PLACES WE�VE EATEN:<o:p></o:p></u></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><a
href="http://www.theledbury.com/">The Ledbury</a><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span></b><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>Currently
our <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>favorite</i> place to dine in London!
We <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>never</i> go to London without dining
there! Every time we have gone, the food has been better than the time
before�and the starting point had been pretty incredibly good to begin
with.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Chef <b>Brett Graham</b> is
another of those chefs from Australia (of all places) who has been
revolutionizing and improving the cuisine in London (<i style='mso-bidi-font-style:
normal'>q.v.</i>, the bit below by our friend Nina Simonds, �<b><a
href="http://www.nancyrubens.com/Australian%20London.html">Australian Chefs in
London</a></b>�)�and he worked for years at The Square (which <i
style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>had</i> been our favorite place to eat in
London for decades: <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>q.v.</i>,
below).<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>His cooking, and that of his
amazing Head Chef, <b>Greg Austin</b>, is truly awesome�brilliantly inventive
yet totally solid.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span><b>The Ledbury</b> is
beautiful room, stylish and comfortable, but less formal than The Square, with
great service, and fabulous food.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>To
celebrate after the London opening of our friend�s musical of <i
style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown</i>,
we took Davis Yazbek (who did the music and lyrics) and his wife Betsy, along
with a couple of my very best foodie friends from Paris.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Our celebratory meal was built around one of <b>Chef
Graham</b>�s magnificent tasting menus (<a
href="http://www.theledbury.com/tasting-menu/">click <b>here</b></a> for a
current version)�in which <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>every single
course</i> was ambrosial�accompanied by some truly outstanding wines from <b>Anja
<span class=SpellE>Breit<span style='font-weight:normal;mso-bidi-font-weight:
bold'>�s</span></span></b> brilliantly assembled cellar (<b>Anja</b> was not
there that evening, but we were ably assisted by the extremely talented <b>Ted <span
class=SpellE>Kandylis</span></b>, who is her Assistant Head <span class=GramE>Sommelier
)</span>.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>We have been back a number of
times since that dinner, and Anja is now gone, replaced by the equally talented
<b>Seamus Williams-Sharkey</b>.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The GM, <b>Darren
McHugh</b>, runs a totally efficient, friendly, and highly professional dining
room.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Dining here is an extraordinary
experience, not to be missed.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>It can be
an extremely hard reservation, however, so plan well in advance so as not to be
disappointed.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(127 Ledbury Road, <span
class=SpellE>Notting</span> Hill W11 2AQ. +44 20 7792 9090.)<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><o:p> </o:p></b></p>
<h2 style='margin-top:12.0pt'><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><a
href="http://www.pied-a-terre.co.uk/home">Pied a Terre</a></span><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span><span class=GramE><span style='font-weight:
normal;mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>This</span></span><span style='font-weight:
normal;mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'> this intimate little place on West Charlotte
Street in Bloomsbury has for years been a real temple to gastronomic excellence
in inventiveness.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>We have enjoyed it for
many years, and it is still a place worth visiting, although it has slipped
from its lofty heights in recent years.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>(The rest of this review is based on the �old days.�)<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The original chef, </span>Shane Osborne<span
style='font-weight:normal;mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'> (the first Australian
chef [<i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>q.v.</i>, below, an old note about
Australian chefs in London] to receive a coveted Michelin star) had been
replaced by </span>Marcus Eaves<span style='font-weight:normal;mso-bidi-font-weight:
bold'> (one-time prot�g� of Shane Osborn, who gained his own first Michelin
star when only 27, 14 months after opening the related </span><span
class=SpellE>L'Autre</span> Pied<span style='font-weight:normal;mso-bidi-font-weight:
bold'> in 2007, in Marylebone and who has returned to head the kitchen at Pied
� Terre.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Amidst the mainly
French-influenced dishes, there have always been some wonderfully subtle Asian
and Mediterranean touches. There traditionally had been a 3 course set lunch
for �27.50, an a la carte menu for �60, and a tasting menu at �99.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>On 22 May 2012, I had the nine-course tasting
menu, which was quite extraordinary:<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<h2 style='margin-top:12.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:0in;margin-left:
2.0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;text-indent:0in'><span style='font-size:9.0pt;
font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black;font-weight:normal;mso-bidi-font-weight:
bold'>English Green Asparagus <span class=SpellE>Velout�</span> with a Ragout
of Broad Beans and Soft Poached Quail Egg; Marinated Scottish Scallops with
Toasted <span class=SpellE>Hazelnuts,Caramelised</span> Celeriac and Confit
Amalfi Lemon; Seared Duck Foie Gras with Passion Fruit Curd, Puff Wild Rice,
Glazed Endive and <span class=SpellE>Puy</span> Lentils; Poached Fillets of
Lemon Sole with Cucumber, Borage and Pernod <span class=SpellE>Velout�</span>; <span
class=SpellE>Pyren�es</span> Lamb Shoulder with New Season <span class=SpellE>Onions,Peas</span>
and a Lightly Smoked Sabayon; Cheese Selection; Strawberry Sorbet with Wild
Strawberries Jelly and Lemon Oil; Vanilla <span class=SpellE>Creme</span> <span
class=SpellE>Brul�e</span> with Spring Raspberries, Raspberry <span
class=SpellE>Gel,Lemon</span> Verbena Ice Cream; Coffee and <span class=SpellE>Petits</span>
Fours</span><span style='font-weight:normal;mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>)<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span><o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-top:12.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:
0in;margin-left:1.5in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;page-break-after:avoid'>All the
dishes were totally magnificent�intensely flavorful, creative, beautiful, and
profoundly delicious�except for the lamb course, which was OK, but not special�the
slow cooked lamb shoulder was not interesting �qua meat,� and there were no
sauce or spices able to rescue it (interestingly, Eaves, who�much to my
liking�uses salt liberally in his cooking, failed to add nearly enough to this
dish).<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>We had a fabulous �02 <span
class=SpellE>Gevrey</span>-Chambertin, Les <span class=SpellE>Jeunes</span> <span
class=SpellE>Rois</span> from <span class=SpellE>Geantet-Pansiot</span>, and a
glass of a delicious �05 <span class=SpellE>Trockenbeerenauslese</span> from <span
class=SpellE>Nittnaus</span> to accompany the foie <span class=SpellE>gras</span>
course.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�� </span>(34 Charlotte Street, <span
class=GramE>+44 20.7636.1178</span>.)<span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><a
href="http://www.the-savoy-group.com/Connaught/Restaurants-and-Bars/The_Grill_Room/default.asp">H�l�ne
<span class=SpellE>Darroze</span> at The Connaught</a></b> In July 2008, one of
the only female star chefs of Paris (who has a famous eponymous restaurant
there) took over the restaurants at <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>The
Connaught</b>.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>She has created here a
fine French restaurant of world class quality.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>With exquisite service, gorgeous d�cor, and luxurious comfort, the place
is a perfect setting for the sophisticated and delicious food M. <span
class=SpellE>Darroze</span> is preparing.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>In addition to the fabulous things we ordered (I had an appetizer of <span
class=SpellE>Chipirons</span> [small calamari] saut�ed with chorizo and confit
tomatoes, in a black [squid ink] and creamy <span class=SpellE>Carnaroli</span>
<span class=SpellE>Acquarello</span> rice, with a <span class=SpellE>Reggiano</span>
parmesan foam; followed by a main course of<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>�Le <span class=SpellE>Chevreuil</span>,� ribs and fillet of venison
with chicory butter, autumn fruits and vegetable fondant, in an intense coffee
sauce; <span class=SpellE>an</span> a <span class=SpellE>Poire</span> <span
class=SpellE>Comice</span> [pear poached in vanilla jelly, crystallized ginger <span
class=SpellE>pannacotta</span>, with pear granite]), there was a seemingly
endless presentation of other extraordinarily delicious treats that appeared
unbidden:<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>several amuses <span
class=SpellE>bouches</span> (A foie <span class=SpellE>gras</span> cr�me <span
class=SpellE>brul�e</span> with apple sorbet and peanut emulsion, a creamy soup
of <span class=SpellE>c�pes</span>, a fine ham, bread sticks with tomato, et
al.),<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>a signature <span class=SpellE>L�Escaoutoun</span>
(a traditional polenta-like dish from Land, made with ewes� milk, mascarpone,
sheep cheese, <span class=SpellE>c�pes</span>, etc.) which appeared between the
appetizer and the main course, a pre-desert, etc., etc.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>It was truly an exquisite feast.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>We accompanied it with a bottle of <span
class=SpellE>Billecart</span>-Salmon Ros� and a spectacular <span class=SpellE>Vosne-Roman�e</span>
�<span class=SpellE>Reignots</span>� 2003 from <span class=SpellE>Cathiard</span>.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>All-in-all, it was an extraordinary meal,
though<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span><i style='mso-bidi-font-style:
normal'>quite</i> expensive.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>There is a
much more reasonably priced lunch.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Like
most great French restaurants, H�l�ne <span class=SpellE>Darroze</span> at the
Connaught is closed weekends.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>In <span
class=GramE>The</span> Connaught Hotel, on Carlos Place, Mayfair, Tube: Bond
Street, +44 20.7592.1223)</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><o:p> </o:p></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><a
href="http://www.zafferanorestaurant.com/">Zafferano</a></b><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>On Thanksgiving 2003 (<i style='mso-bidi-font-style:
normal'>and</i> 2004), we ate dinner here as a gesture of support for Calvin Trillin�s
campaign to replace turkey with spaghetti carbonara the national dish for
Thanksgiving (<i>q.v.</i>, <a href="http://www.rlrubens.com/Thanksgiving.html">www.RLRubens.com/Thanksgiving.html</a>).<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>This interesting and highly touted Italian
restaurant is located on <st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on">Lowndes
Street</st1:address></st1:Street>, just south of <st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address
w:st="on">Lowndes Square</st1:address></st1:Street>.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>It has a magnificent Italian wine list,
delicious food, and professional but friendly service. It is expensive�and a
bit more so because, on both visits, we could not resist availing ourselves of
the fact that it was still the season for white truffles�but very much worth
the price, and everything they cook there is delicious.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>We have returned many times since, and the
place is always satisfyingly delicious. (daily:<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>lunch, 12 or 12:30 - 2:30 or 3; dinner, 7 � 10:30 or11.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span><st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on">15
Lowndes St.</st1:address></st1:Street>, Knightsbridge Tube: Knightsbridge, <span
class=GramE>+44 20.7235.5800</span>)</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><a
href="http://www.moro.co.uk/">Moro</a></b><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>This really interesting, small Moorish restaurant (with Spanish, North African,
and Eastern Mediterranean influences) is all the way out by King's Cross�a ten
minute walk north on Farringdon Road from the Farringdon tube stop.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>There is an excellent inexpensive to
moderately priced wine list (featuring mainly Spanish and Portuguese wines)and
wonderful breads (baked while you are dining).<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>The menu, which changes daily, features spectacular appetizers (the best
grilled squid I�ve ever had, a divine chestnut and chorizo soup, and wonderful
grilled sardines), and very good main courses (lamb, chicken, fish, or
vegetables)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(M-F, 34-35 <span
class=SpellE>Exmouth</span> Market, Tube: Farringdon, +44 20.7833.8336)</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><a
href="http://www.stjohnrestaurant.com/">St. John</a></b><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�� </span>This old Smithfield smokehouse, opened by <b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Fergus Henderson</b> and <b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Trevor Gulliver</b> in October 1994, is a
rather earthy setting for some marvelously earthy but delicious food.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Describing itself as specializing in �Nose to
Tail Eating,� this place is only for the serious carnivore�and even at that,
there are items on the menu that will challenge all but the very most
adventurous:<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>appetizers of Welk,
Sausage, & Trotter, Roast Bone Marrow and Parsley Salad, and main dishes
of<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Ox Heart & Mash, Mallard and
Swede, and Lentils & Goat Curd. Many more familiar dishes are also readily
available�including a Lemon Sole, the one fish entr�e on the menu. We were
there for a banquet built around a whole roasted suckling pig (which must be
ordered a week in advance) which was simply the best I have ever had to
pleasure to taste.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The place is most
unusual, but totally wonderful.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(<st1:Street
w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on"><span style='mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt'>26 St.
John St.</span></st1:address></st1:Street><span style='mso-bidi-font-size:
10.0pt'>, <span class=SpellE>Clerkenwell</span>/Smithfield, EC1, Tube:
Farringdon, +44 20 7251 0848)</span> They have recently opened a new branch
office:<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
normal'>St. John Hotel</b>.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>While we
have not yet eaten there, we hear it is extremely good. (1 Leicester St, WC2H 7,
<br>
+44 20 3301 8069</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><a
href="http://www.rivercafe.co.uk/"><span class=GramE>River Caf�</span></a></b><span
class=GramE><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�� </span>Italian.</span> If you
happen to be in Hammersmith�although who in his right mind would just �happen�
to be in Hammersmith, which is a thirty minute taxi ride from downtown�this is <i
style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>the</i> place to eat.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>[If you do go for dinner, three practical
things to remember due to its isolated, residential location:<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>bring a map of the area (as our cab driver
had a hard time finding it�and be aware that it is very poorly marked even once
you are in front of it); know that, due to the zoning, you have to be out by 11
PM; and remember to have them call you a car, as there is no way that you will
be able to find one in that neighborhood, and it is not at all close to the
Tube station.]<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>It is an extremely<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>interesting, albeit somewhat cold,
industrial-chic dining room, quite informal, and, in the daytime it must have a
beautiful view of the river.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The food
was a bit uneven: when we ate there, it ranged from a totally <i>sublime</i>
appetizer of wood-oven roasted<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>fresh
sardines over pine nuts and hot peppers to one main course that was rather
pedestrian.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>One of the two women who own
the place is Ruthie Rogers, wife of the renowned architect Richard Rogers (who,
among many famous projects, did the Pompidou Center in Paris with Renzo Piano);
and his organization has its home just next to the River Caf� (allowing one to
look in at models of his many famous buildings).<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�� </span>(<st1:PlaceName w:st="on">Thames</st1:PlaceName>
<st1:PlaceType w:st="on">Wharf</st1:PlaceType>, <st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address
w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on"><span class=SpellE>Rainville</span></st1:City>
Rd.</st1:address></st1:Street>, W6 9HA Tube: Hammersmith, <span class=GramE>+44
20.7386.4200</span>.)</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><o:p> </o:p></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><a href="http://www.thewolseley.com/">The
Wolseley</a><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span></b>This fun French
Bistro-style restaurant, located right next to the Ritz Hotel, is a true
find.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Everything was delicious (although
their deep fried Whitebait and their steak tartare were particularly
outstanding).<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>And this place is one of
the few places in <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">London</st1:place></st1:City>
open late for dinner�they�re open until midnight every night except Sunday. 160
<span class=SpellE>Picadilly</span> W1J <span class=GramE>9EB<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>+</span>44 20.7499.6996</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><o:p> </o:p></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><a
href="http://lpmlondon.co.uk/">La Petite <span class=SpellE>Maison</span></a></b><span
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'>.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>This
Mayfair French bistro is a new find, and, while crowded and noisy, it is
extremely enjoyable<span class=GramE>..</span><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>Particularly wonderful are its many delicious and varied appetizers,
which are superb (and far better than its main courses, which are fine but not
special).<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>I�d suggest a meal entirely composed
of a large selection of the appetizers; it will thrill and satisfy you.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(53-54 Brook's Mews, LONDON W1K4EG, +44 (0)
20 7495 4774)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><span
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:bold'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><span
class=SpellE><span class=GramE><b>Hakkasan</b></span></span><span class=GramE><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>This</span> striking underground room is done
mostly in black with blue highlights and is dramatically spot lighted.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>It serves delicious and innovative Chinese
food�especially the incredible dim sum (a vast variety of unusual and tasty
morsels to choose from), which is available only at lunch. (<st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address
w:st="on"><span style='mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt'>8 <span class=SpellE>Hanway</span>
Pl.</span></st1:address></st1:Street><span style='mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt'>,
Tube: <st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on"><span class=SpellE>Tottenham</span>
Court</st1:address></st1:Street>, <st1:place w:st="on">Bloomsbury</st1:place>,
020.7927.7000)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>The Ivy</b> which felt like 21 with good,
homey, upscale food.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Perfectly located
for the theatre district, but impossible to get<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>a reservation.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(Daily <span
class=SpellE>L&D</span>, <st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on">1
West St</st1:address></st1:Street> at <st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address
w:st="on">Litchfield St</st1:address></st1:Street>, Tube: <st1:place w:st="on">Leicester</st1:place>
Sq., 020.7836.4751) Mod Brit.</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b>Le Caprice</b><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�� </span>Run by the same people who own The Ivy, and
with a related menu (and easier to get a reservation at)�and serves dinner
until midnight, and has a good brunch.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>(Daily, <st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on">Arlington St.</st1:address></st1:Street>
[off Piccadilly], just behind the RITZ, Tube: <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:PlaceName
w:st="on">Green</st1:PlaceName> <st1:PlaceType w:st="on">Park</st1:PlaceType></st1:place>,<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>020.7629 2239)</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><o:p> </o:p></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><st1:Street
w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on"><b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Kensington
Place</b></st1:address></st1:Street> restaurant, is still going strong after
a dozen years. Great space with big windows, outside of which in its heyday
appeared to be a Range Rover lot. Don't let that put you off, though, as the
food is quite good. (Daily <span class=SpellE>L&D</span>, 727.3184, <st1:Street
w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on">201-207 Kensington Church St.</st1:address></st1:Street>
Tube: <span class=SpellE>Notting</span> Hill Gate)</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b>E &
O<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�� </span></b>An excellent and informal�if
trendy�pan-Asian fusion restaurant; inexpensive and very good.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The program here involves ordering a series
of small portions with no difference between starters, main courses and desserts:
dim sum, BBQ/Roasts, sushi and sashimi, salads and curries. (Daily, <st1:Street
w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on">14 Blenheim Crescent</st1:address></st1:Street>,
<span class=bold>Tube:</span> <span class=SpellE>Notting</span> Hill Gate,
020.7229.5454 )</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.0in;text-indent:-.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><a
href="http://www.squarerestaurant.com/">The Square</a></b><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>[<span style='color:red'>WARNING</span>:
After years of this being our favorite restaurant in London�wonderful and
totally reliable�we had a truly disastrous, horrible experience our last visit!
We still have not recovered from the shock, but are fears about the place�s
decline have been confirmed by knowledgeable friends in London; and we have not
returned since.] This attractive, comfortable room off Berkeley Square provided
the perfect setting for the truly delicious New French cuisine of<b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'> Philip Howard,</b> chef and co-owner since
its opening in 1991. Howard, supported for over 10 years by the talented head
chef <b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>Robert Weston</b>, used the best
available seasonal ingredients to create elegantly creative, wonderfully tasty
dishes that never failed to thrill me.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>One meal we had, right from it beginning with an amuse bouche of a
seared scallop in a frothy broth, through the exquisite appetizers (roasted
foie <span class=SpellE>gras</span> with late harvested grapes, and a crab
ravioli), and perfectly cooked main dishes (rack of hare, loin of lamb, and
medallions of pork), everything was wonderfully delicious.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The wine list deserved special mention
because, in addition to its impressive array of both French and Italian wines,
it had options that were as affordable as they were delicious.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>This was for years our favorite restaurant in
London, and we never missed the chance to pay it a visit.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(<st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on">6-10
<span class=SpellE>Bruton</span> St</st1:address></st1:Street>. New French.
Tube: Bond St/Green Pk., <span class=GramE>+44 20.7495.7100</span>)</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><a
href="http://www.bistrotheque.com/"><span class=SpellE>Bistroteque</span></a><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�� </span></b>This hip, white brick, industrial room
in Hackney (not far from a street full of warehouses that have been turned into
thriving, happening art galleries) serves tasty, simple fare�and it is most
certainly <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>the</i> place to eat when in
this neighborhood.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>It is a fabulous
place for brunch on Saturday and Sunday (11-4), and it is open until 10:30 or
11 every evening for dinner.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span><st1:Street
w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on">23-27 <span class=SpellE>Wadeson</span> Street</st1:address></st1:Street>,
E2 9DR, 020 8983 7900<b><o:p></o:p></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><o:p> </o:p></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><span
class=SpellE><b>Wapping</b></span><b> Food</b><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>This industrial eatery, set in a former power substation, is an
out-of-the-way little treat.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The food is
tasty and good, if in no way particularly wonderful; but the setting and
related art venues are quite extraordinary.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>The owner, Jewels, has created something of a miniature, and earthier
version of the Tate<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Modern.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>In the midst of rusting machinery, she has
created spaces that provide a magnificent home to visual artists, filmmakers,
designers, writers, and choreographers�not to mention her quite respectable
eatery. (<span class=SpellE><span style='mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt'>Wapping</span></span><span
style='mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt'> Hydraulic Power Station, <span class=SpellE>Wapping</span>
Wall, E1, Canary Wharf/Docklands, Tube: <span class=SpellE>Wapping</span>,
020.7680.2080</span>)</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><o:p> </o:p></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b>The Blac</b><b
style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>k Friar Pub</b><span style='mso-bidi-font-weight:
bold'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Not really on this list because
of its food as much as for its atmosphere, this wildly decorated pub stands in
the shadow of <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:PlaceName w:st="on">Black</st1:PlaceName>
<st1:PlaceName w:st="on">Friars</st1:PlaceName> <st1:PlaceType w:st="on">Bridge</st1:PlaceType></st1:place>,
just across from the <span class=SpellE>Blackfriars</span> tube station.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>After a visit to the Tate Modern, walk across
the Millennium pedestrian bridge, head west, and stop in for lunch.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The bear and ale are wonderful, and the
rarebit is tasty�although most of the other food is of rather poor quality. The
d�cor, however, is well worth the visit:<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>the walls are done in incredibly richly colored marble, with mosaics and
copper trim and embellishments of every variety.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>It is unbelievably packed for lunch on
weekdays (an experience all its own), but much more manageable for a Saturday
lunch. (<st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on">174 Queen Victoria Street</st1:address></st1:Street>,
Tube: <span class=SpellE>Blackfriars</span>, 020.7236.5474)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><o:p> </o:p></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.0in;text-indent:-.5in'><u>RECOMMENDED
BY OTHERS ON GOOD AUTHORITY, BUT NOT TRIED:<o:p></o:p></u></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><o:p> </o:p></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span>(Sally) <span class=GramE>Clarke's<span
style='font-weight:normal'><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>another</span></span></b>
favorite. You've probably heard her described as the Alice Waters of <st1:City
w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">London</st1:place></st1:City>, and that's not
far off. Very nice, clean, but hearty food and now she has a shop attached
selling baked goods, jams, etc. She had the only good bread in <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place
w:st="on">London</st1:place></st1:City> and really terrific cookies
("biscuits" <span class=SpellE>doncha</span> know) (M-Sat <span
class=SpellE>L&D</span>, <st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on">124
Kensington Church St.</st1:address></st1:Street> Tube: <span class=SpellE>Notting</span>
Hill Gate, 221.9225)</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b><o:p> </o:p></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><span
class=SpellE><b>Assaggi</b></span><b> </b><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span>excellent Italian. (<st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address
w:st="on"><span style='mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt'>39 <span class=SpellE>Chepstow</span>
Pl.</span></st1:address></st1:Street><span style='mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt'>
Tube: <span class=SpellE>Notting</span> Hill Gate, 7792.5501</span>)</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b>Australian
Chefs in <st1:City w:st="on">London</st1:City></b><span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�� </span>Yes, believe it or not, there are a <i>number</i>
of restaurants run by Australian (and <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place
w:st="on">New Zealand</st1:place></st1:country-region>) chefs that are
excellent! (The one we�ve tried, Pied a Terre, is listed above.)<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The others, Smiths of Smithfield, <span
class=SpellE>Mju</span>, <span class=SpellE>Nahm</span>, and <span
class=SpellE>Providores</span> & Tapa Room are wonderfully reviewed in our
friend Nina Simonds article that appeared in the NY Times:<a
href="http://www.nancyrubens.com/Australian%20London.html">
http://www.nancyrubens.com/Australian London.html</a>)</p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:1.5in;text-indent:-.5in'><b>Rasa<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span></b><span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�</span>a south
Indian vegetarian restaurant, out in Stoke-Newington, Tiny, full of students,
really delicious, fresh-tasting interesting food for ten pounds per person.
terrific AND cheap (<st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on">6 Dering St.</st1:address></st1:Street>,
Tube :Angel/<span class=SpellE>Finsbuy</span> Pk., 249.0344)</p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><b><u>THINGS TO DO:<o:p></o:p></u></b></p>
<p class=bodytextdefault>The <b><a
href="http://www.courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/index.shtml">Courtauld Gallery</a></b>
is an incredible treat: a very small collection with some of the most
absolutely magnificent impressionist and post-impressionist treasures in the
world (upstairs).<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>There are fabulous
paintings by C�zanne, Pissarro, Monet, and Derain that may rank among the
finest done by these extraordinary painters.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>The <span class=SpellE>Courtauld</span> is one of our very favorite
things in London, and we literally <i style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'>never</i>
go to London without paying it a visit.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>It is located in <b><a href="http://www.somersethouse.org.uk/">Somerset
House</a></b>, an impressive Neoclassical building by Sir William Chambers
(late 18<sup>th</sup> century).<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>In the
central courtyard of Somerset House, a magnificent space which formally only
served as a car park for the Inland Revenue, which is the building�s main
tenant, there is now an ice skating rink (<a
href="http://www.somersethouse.org.uk/ice-rink">www.somersethouse.org.uk/ice-rink</a>)
that is open to the public for eight weeks starting the end of November.</p>
<p class=bodytextdefault>Of course, there�s <b><a href="http://www.tate.org.uk/">The
Tate</a></b>: the <b><a href="http://www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-britain">Tate
British</a></b> (great Turners and Constables; my view of British art: �Ugly
painting, ugly painting, Turner, ugly painting, ugly painting, Constable, ugly
painting, ugly painting...�) and the <b><a
href="http://www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-modern">Tate Modern</a></b>, in its
renovated power station home:<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The
original building, the Bankside Power Station,<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>�
</span>was designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott�also the designer of the famous
British red telephone box.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The Tate
Modern has some spectacular art in its permanent collection, but is a simply
dreadful example of what I consider a most damnable trend in current exhibition
philosophy, in which art is grouped according to some conceptual scheme of the
curator, rather than chronologically or by artist.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Thus, instead of being able to go and look at
the <span class=SpellE>Schwitters</span> collages you might want to see, or the
Rothko paintings (on the other hand, there is one fabulous room devoted
entirely to a series of Rothko paintings, which was designed in consultation
with the artist himself), or marvelous works by <span class=SpellE>Duchamps</span>,
you have to wander through various arrays of works dealing with �Still
Life/Object/Real Life� or �Landscape/Matter/Environment� or some other
conceptual groupings, and sort through any number of other works the curator
thinks you <i>ought</i> to see along with those you might want to see.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>There is usually a magnificent installation
of some sort in the turbine hall (the mammoth entrance area to the museum which
housed the power plants turbines).<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>In
November 2004, it was a gigantic sound sculpture.</p>
<p class=bodytextdefault>After a visit to the Tate Modern, one should return
back across the <st1:place w:st="on">Thames</st1:place> via the Millennium
pedestrian bridge. </p>
<p class=MsoNormal>If you've never been there, the <b><a
href="http://www.iwm.org.uk/visits/churchill-war-rooms">War Cabinet Rooms</a> </b>are
really worth seeing. (<st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Nancy</st1:place></st1:City>
dragged Alex and me there against my will, but I loved it: a real experience of
WWII).</p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal>If you can stomach the imperialist plundering, the <b><a
href="http://www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk/"><span class=SpellE>The</span> British
Museum</a></b> has many incredible treasures (including the Rosetta Stone, the
sculpture from the Parthenon, etc.); the new inner court yard designed by
Norman Foster joins the space between the various buildings of the museum and
creates a magnificent central area under its beautifully vaulted glass roof
which houses the recently renovated and totally amazing Reading Room (open to
the public for the first time) at its center.</p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal>The <b><a href="http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/">National
Gallery</a></b> is one of the world�s great museums; among its many world class
treasures, it is the home to one of the three unbelievably wonderful paintings
by Uccello of the <a
href="http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/paolo-uccello-the-battle-of-san-romano">Battle
of San Romano</a> (the other two being at the Louvre and the Uffizi)�these
incredibly modern 15<sup>th</sup> century paintings are among our favorite
works of all time.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>(This Uccello is in
Room # 55 of the Sainsbury Wing.)<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>Among
the other magnificent paintings are the National Gallery�s collection of
Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings (in Rooms 43-46 of the main
building)�including some magnificent <span class=SpellE>Manets</span>, <span
class=SpellE>Monets</span>, <span class=SpellE>Cezannes</span>, <span
class=SpellE>Pissarros</span>, etc.</p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal>The<a href="http://www.soane.org/"> <span class=SpellE><b>Soanes</b></span><b>
Museum</b></a>, the preserved townhouse of the great Regency architect, Sir
Joan <span class=SpellE>Soanes</span>, is a treasure of the highest order,<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>decorated as he lived in it, it is filled
with an unbelievable collection of architectural fragments, models, drawings,
sculpture, paintings (a <i>must</i> if you like Hogarth)�and even the alabaster
sarcophagus of Pharaoh <span class=SpellE>Seti</span> I!<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'>� </span>The domes and other top-lighting of the
spaces and the colored glass he employed are truly wonderful. </p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal>The <b><a href="http://www.wigmore-hall.org.uk/"><span
class=SpellE>Wigmore</span> Hall<span style='font-weight:normal'> </span></a></b>is
one of the nicest concert halls in the world, so check out their programs. And
the <b><a href="http://www.roh.org.uk/">Royal Opera Company</a> </b>in Covent
Garden is a treat that is well worth partaking of.</p>
<p align=center style='text-align:center'><a href="travel.html">Return to the
Dead Parrot TRAVEL Page.</a></p>
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